Madrid

Madrid, the heart and soul of Spain, conjures swirling wine, salty ham, stomping flamenco boots, and the colorful bravado of bullfights. A cultural epicenter, the city has art that gushes from museums and infuses ancient roads with new breath and life. Madrid is entrenched in tradition, but the people are in constant motion—museum-hopping, street-strolling, tapas-eating, and sangria-drinking. Don’t forget those magical sleepy hours of siesta when a blanket of silence allows the city’s batteries to recharge. Slip into the Madrileño lifestyle, enjoy the lingering moments of each day, and take advantage of every hour of the night.

Madrid at sunrise

Photo by Boris Stroujko/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Madrid?

The sun is nearly always shining in Madrid, which makes it an ideal destination year-round. For a truly local experience, skip August, as many Madrileños shut down their businesses and travel to escape the brutal, dry heat. May 15 marks the anniversary of 15-M, the 2011 student protests against austerity policies, and the whole month is a hotbed of protests, marches, and political demonstrations in the downtown area. This is also when the famous San Isidro bullfights take place, so the city is absolutely bustling.

How to get around Madrid

The unbeatable convenience of the AVE, Europe’s fastest high-speed train, makes traveling across Spain a cinch. For arrivals by air, Madrid Barajas Airport is located in the northeast of the city, and from there it’s a cheap train ride to anywhere in the city. A taxi bank awaits outside the arrivals area, with a €30 fixed fee to get into the city, with a €5.50 supplement (about US$6.25) when leaving the airport. For bus journeys, ALSA is the best for both domestic and international travel from Madrid, but the overnight options tend to be long and punctuated with several stops.

Madrid’s Metro is easily one of the best in the world, covering the entirety of the city with regular service. Employee strikes are becoming more frequent, and this can sometimes lead to 20-minute wait times. On strike days, you’re typically better taking a taxi or pounding the pavement. Don’t dismiss the bus system—it’s one of the better ways to stay above ground and take in more of the city than you thought possible. The Madrid Transport system has a highly functioning website in English, allowing you to plan your public transit easily.

Can’t miss things to do in Madrid

Sunset at Temple de Debod after a ride on the cable cars in the southwest part of the city is one of the most magical experiences you can have in Madrid. The capital sparkles like a jewel under the setting sun, the river gleams below like a gold necklace, and you are sailing above the city.

Food and drink to try in Madrid

A foodie haven, Madrid is home to fabulous ham, cheeses, wines, and desserts all served in places packed with character. The eyes of the culinary world in Madrid are focused on the future—expect to see many fusion restaurants and unique takes on Iberian classics. The Spanish tradition of tapas is alive and well, and the smaller portions allow diners to sample all the famous food and drinks—jamon serrano, paella, gazpacho, riojas, and riberas—without busting the belt.

The Tavernas and Tapas walking tour, organized by AFAR’s travel partner, Context, and led by either a culinary expert or a chef, explores all the tasty angles of Madrid’s tapas food culture.

Culture in Madrid

From flamenco and soccer to bullfighting and ham, Madrid has a proud tradition of culture seeping from every corner of the city. Hemingway’s haunts dot the trails of downtown, and the tapas and beer spill out into the streets, begging you to stop and spend a moment soaking in Madrid.

Epiphany, in early January, is Spain’s favorite holiday, when presents and parades abound in the city. The entire downtown closes to enjoy and participate in the parade, while the Three Kings throw candy to the cheering crowd. To see the real spirit of Madrid, visit in mid-May when the San Isidro festival transforms the city into an earlier version of itself. Everyone, young and old, dresses in traditional Madrileño costumes and dances the night away in the San Isidro neighborhood. This is also when the famous San Isidro bullfights are held at Las Ventas arena, and the city pulses with energy.

Local travel tips for Madrid

- Except in downtown Puerta del Sol, the siesta is alive and well and is taken anywhere from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Live like a local, plan your shopping accordingly, and enjoy the silence of the city in these hours.
Tranquilo (think tranquil) means “to calm yourself” and is the motto of the Spanish lifestyle. Service may be a bit slower here, but enjoy the ride, shrug your shoulders, and indulge in people watching. There is no rush.
- Tipping is not customary at most restaurants. If your service was exceptional, by all means show your gratitude, but for most occasions simply leaving the change (under 1 euro) and departing with Gracias (“thank you,” pronounced gra-thee-ahs) is appreciated. Of course, this does not apply to high-end venues, where tipping norms are adhered to.
- Look out for the lisp! Madrileños (locals) have a heavy lisp and speak at lightning speed, usually only pausing to roll their eyes or light a cigarette. Don’t be disheartened if you cannot understand them. Just join in and say vale (vah-lay), which means “okay.”

Guide Editor

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It’s not that newer is necessarily better—Antonio Obrador, the hotelier and designer of famously luxurious retreats like Mallorca’s Cap Rocat, would hardly choose a neoclassical, turn-of-the-century palacio for his latest project, were that the case—but when a hotel gets the kind of buzz that the Urso Hotel & Spa got when it opened in the fall of 2014, there’s usually a reason.

In the hip, up-and-coming Salesas neighborhood, across the street from the recently reopened (and equally lively) Barceló food market, Madrid’s first five-star boutique hotel looks, from the outside, like many grandes dames: ornate, decadent, and just a bit over-the-top. Inside is another story; while many of the original details (hand-painted azulejo tiles, grand marble staircase, stained-glass windows, windowed wooden elevator) have been painstakingly restored with the help of local craftsmen, the style is undeniably contemporary, with even a hint of Scandinavian-inspired minimalism to offset the pull of the antique. This devotion to design alone would have merited the aforementioned buzz, but Obrador and his team didn’t stop there, throwing in one of Madrid’s most innovative restaurants, most soothing spas, most understatedly cool bars, and, of course, the superlative service required of any five-star stay.
Spain takes its food seriously. After all, it’s the country that gave birth to El Bulli and, as of 2015, has 169 Michelin-starred restaurants (11 in Madrid alone). So it comes as no surprise that a top hotel on a main boulevard in the capital should be home to one of these temples to gastronomy, the two-Michelin-starred Santceloni. But the Hotel Hesperia Madrid doesn’t content itself with just a world-class restaurant. No, this sleek retreat—decorated boldly by some of Spain’s top designers, including Pascua Ortega, Erico Navazo, and Mercedes Gonzalez López-de-Carrizosa—is devoted to the best of contemporary Spanish dining, with a total of three acclaimed restaurants and a sultry scotch bar attracting the most discerning palates in Madrileño society. In between decadent meals—and exploring the ritzy shopping and myriad sights just outside the hotel’s front door—work up an appetite at the open-air gym up on the rooftop, yet another of the Hesperia’s claims to fame.
The Hotel Ritz is closed for renovations and set to reopen in late 2019.

The thing about Madrid’s Hotel Ritz is that, despite the name, it’s not technically a Ritz. In 1910, King Alfonso XIII toured Europe and decided that the Spanish capital lacked the kind of grand hotel worthy of visiting royalty that Paris and London had in their Ritz Hotels. And so he hired legendary hotelier César Ritz to create one for him in Madrid, with the same luxury ideals and a Spanish twist.

What he got was a grand belle epoque landmark on the Paseo del Prado, Madrid’s central promenade, next to the stock exchange and the Museo del Prado, just a couple blocks from the Parque del Retiro. Opulent suites have hosted dignitaries and celebrities for over a century, while the elegant lobby bar—with its live piano or Spanish guitar music, and antique furnishings—has been a fixture of Madrid society since its opening. The current Goya Restaurant is still considered one of the city’s best, despite its somewhat more Old World style than contemporary Spain is used to, and its leafy garden terrace hosts a parade of international glitterati. Recently acquired by Mandarin Oriental, the hotel is undergoing some updates, guaranteed to maintain its standards of decadence, just as Alfonso himself would have imagined.
The Beatles stayed here. Cary Grant stayed here. The Spanish royal family has even stayed here, in their own home city. Can there be any better endorsement?

A grande dame in a city known for drama and extravagance, the Gran Meliá Fénix is exactly the kind of traditionally luxe hotel every European capital needs. An imposing structure presiding over one of Madrid’s main avenues, the hotel’s first impression is topped only by its second: a columned marble lobby worthy of a palace, filled with elegant Louis XVII chairs and crowned with a stained-glass dome. Rooms exude Old World splendor, while Red Level suites take the royal residence atmosphere to the next level, with over-the-top service that includes a private lounge with an open bar, free breakfast, and a private balcony overlooking the city—even though many of the top suites also have scenic private terraces with hot tubs.

As with all opulent institutions, even nonresidents participate in the hotel’s ritzy society scene, courtesy of its acclaimed, art deco–styled brasserie and sultry cocktail bar where, if you order a martini, you’ll receive a numbered certificate in accordance with the automated martini counter over the bar. But, with a scene like this, most guests here don’t worry about counting their martinis.
What could be more enchanting than sitting over the Puerta de Sol in the heart of Madrid? Why, enjoying the view with a pastry and cafe con leche in hand, of course. Let Mallorquina’s hustle and bustle of the downstairs leave you feeling like a local, sipping caffeine at the bar, but for a quiet moment of indulgence take the spiral staircase up to the dining room and enjoy the view and white linens for only a few cents more. Rumor is, they serve the best napolitana chocolate in Madrid, but you’ll have to try it for yourself to be sure.
Parque de Oueste is a shady park toward the north of the city. The park is known for its rose gardens, as well as being home to the Temple of Debod, a gift for the Egyptian state in 1968. The overlook of the park offers beautiful views of the Royal Palace and the larger Casa Del Campo. It’s an ideal spot to split a bottle of wine with friends and watch the sunset after a long day of exploring Madrid.