The Best Restaurants in Jamaica

Set directly above rocky low cliffs of Negril and lit at night by torches and candles, Rockhouse Restaurant provides the setting for an elegant and romantic evening. (The setting’s pretty great during the day, too—breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in this open-sided palapa and patio.) The New Jamaican cuisine means a refined and more health-conscious preparation of classic island recipes, with as many ingredients as possible from the hotel’s small organic garden across the road. Among the notable dinner offerings are the blackened mahimahi with mango chutney, snapper steamed in a banana leaf, and coconut shrimp.

Located across the way from Half Moon Resort, Sugar Mill Restaurant is set on the grounds of an old plantation. Couples and small groups dine at candlelit tables either on a covered terrace or out on the lawn, and the splashing of the mill’s waterwheel and the chirping of crickets are an accompanying sound track to the top-notch service and Caribbean fusion menu. Order a bottle from the well-stocked wine cellar, visible as you enter the restaurant. For special occasions, a private table beside the waterwheel can be reserved. (In the mood for a lighter, slightly more casual meal? A tapas menu is available in the restaurant lounge.)

Hop on a small barge-ferry to be whisked out to a larger boat for an unusual dinner on the water. Dine on the covered top deck, if you can snag a table, for an alfresco meal with a glittering night view of Montego Bay’s coast and the Caribbean. The menu is for seafood lovers but has options for everyone. The cozy, warmly lit nautical interior lends a relaxed and intimate vibe. Your fellow diners will most likely be locals, so you can feel like a Jamaica insider—previous passengers on the House Boat have included Steve McQueen, the Duchess of York, and the Beach Boys.

Despite the industrialized patty chain stores across Jamaica, the love for handmade patties continues in some parts of the island. Miss Sonia’s entrée-size, crusty patties are served at a small roadside restaurant across from the beach in Negril. She offers traditional fillings like beef or callaloo, as well as others like lobster and conch that she introduced at the suggestion of her numerous return visitors to Jamaica. When you get your order, be sure to shake on some of the secret spicy sauce—Miss Sonia won’t tell you what’s in it—and then dig in.

Jamaican food is not all jerk and meat patties! You can sample one of the island’s most popular snacks, pepper shrimp, along the south coast. In the town of Middle Quarters, roadside vendors cook the shrimp in big steaming pots on outdoor grills. The shrimp, caught in the Black River, are boiled in salty water and then spiced with chopped scotch bonnet peppers, sea salt, vinegar, and black pepper. Plastic bags of the fiery little shellfish are peddled to drivers passing on their way home from work and to lucky tourists for a messy and addictive snack.

Cooked in an open pit over pimento wood, the jerk preparations here are all authentic and—according to most locals—the best on the island. Traditionally spiced chicken and pork, as well as a less fiery fish version, served in a tin container along with rice and peas and festival bread (akin to hush puppies). Getting your order to stay means eating while perched on wooden barrels, which certainly adds local flavor. While enjoying the delicious meal, you’ll get to observe the seemingly endless line of customers, and perhaps get a ringside view of a lively and noisy game of dominoes.

This 12-cottage luxury hotel, 3,100 feet up in the Blue Mountains, is Jamaica without the beaches. It is the Jamaica of misty mornings, cool, cuddle-worthy evenings, and a musical heritage recognized worldwide. First as a private estate belonging to music producer Chris Blackwell and then as part of his Island Outpost collection of hotels, Strawberry Hill has been a creative refuge for performers including Bob Marley, the Rolling Stones, and Willy Nelson. After Hurricane Gilbert destroyed the estate’s great house in 1988, Blackwell commissioned Jamaican architect Ann Hodges, who specializes in historic reconstructions, to build the cottages, a restaurant, and a pool, which were opened in 1994. Yet despite the rock and roll history, and the hanging with like-minded souls up in the mountain mists, what guests seem to remember most is the far-below views of Kingston, especially at night, when the lights glow and sparkle from what must certainly be another world.

Dining at one of Negril’s excellent cliffside restaurants is highly recommended, and the gorgeous setting of Ivan’s Bar & Restaurant at Catcha Falling Star makes it a very nice option. The longtime favorite has one of the best views along the coast and serves lobster dinners and classic Jamaican cuisine with a bit of a modern twist. Guests are seated under an open-sided thatched roof or out under the stars at private tables on a patio near the cliff’s edge. Another favorite choice for romantic cliffside dining is the restaurant at Rockhouse Hotel. (If you want more cocktails post-dinner, walk down to LTU Pub and mingle with the locals. Casual eateries and cliff bars along West End Road include 3 Dives and Sips & Bites.)

Going to dinner at Little Ochie is as fun as it is delicious. Pick your dinner—from a cooler of freshly caught fish—by species and by weight, then pick the style in which you’d like it cooked: jerk, grilled, escoveitch, and more. Pick a side of bammy, a thick round of cassava bread, to go with it. Your next decision is where to eat—head outside and choose a picnic table under one of the thatched huts carved in the shape of a fisherman’s canoe. The combination of beachy atmosphere and great fish makes this relaxed yet lively slice of Jamaica well worth the hour-long drive from Treasure Beach.

Located along a stretch of coastline that’s sometimes called the birthplace of jerk cuisine, the Boston Bay Jerk Center is hard to miss. Various meats are cook on open pits using a technique that may explain why jerk never tastes so good at home: Uncured pimento logs are placed over a bed of hot coals, and the meat is laid directly on the green logs. The whole operation is then covered up by a sheet of corrugated zinc and cooked until it’s black on the outside and tender underneath. You can place your order by the quarter, half, or full pound. Don’t forget to add jerk sauce, which you can also buy by the bottle as a souvenir.