Best Breakfasts in Paris

The last time Paris ran out of bread, there was a revolution. Now the price of baguettes and the days bakeries close are monitored to ensure affordable, fresh bread is available in every neighborhood every day of the week. Pôilane is popular for its remarkable country loafs (pain de campagne) and Du Pain et des Idées for their baguettes. Gerard Mulot and Blé Sucré are particularly famous for viennoiseries which include croissants, pain au chocolat and apple turnovers that locals usually enjoy over breakfast. Pâtisseries with tantalizing names like Pâtisserie des Rêves (the dream pastry shop) or the friendly Joséphine, display traditional eclairs, tarts and macarons next tempting desserts that look almost too pretty to eat.

Go for the scene, not the food, and enjoy the Art Deco décor and great people-watching at this buzzy Left Bank landmark. Despite a limited menu and steep prices, the place is packed day and night. Order a chocolat chaud and sit on the terrace, watching the world go by.

Situated a block from the Canal St-Martin in the 10th arrondissement, Du Pain et des Idées is your favorite corner bakery—only better. The owner, Christophe Vasseur, was named best boulanger in Paris in 2008, and for good reason. From hearth breads to viennoiseries, everything is crafted to perfection. If you’re discerning about your bread, don’t leave without a slab of the signature loaf, the pain des amis—masterfully crusted on the outside and airy and fluffy on the inside, just waiting to be buttered. But Vasseur’s masterpiece is the chocolate-pistachio escargot pastry, a snail-shaped treat with pistachio paste slathered in between layers of puff pastry and punctuated with dark chocolate chips. This isn’t an optional stop along your Paris visit—it’s a must. But be aware: The shop is open only Monday to Friday.

The torrent of Anglo eateries that have popped up across Paris in recent years can largely be attributed to the searing success of Rose Bakery. I had my doubts years ago when I first heard about the internationally-staffed organic canteen - how good could English food be, really? Expensive though it may be, it’s one of my favorite places to go for warm cheese scones, fresh vegetable and a variety of cakes suitable for breakfast or afternoon tea. Rose began in London, hopped over to Paris on rue des Martyrs, expanded to the Marais, settled into a 3rd location within La Maison Rouge foundation in the 12th and most recently took over a 2nd floor corner of the chic department store Le Bon Marché. And that’s saying nothing of their international locations. Its appeal was virtually immediate and RB quickly established itself as the spot among hipsters, artists, celebrities (the likes of Natalie Portman and Julie Delpy, who I spotted last year) and tourists for organic, English fare. They open early, excel at pancakes and healthy veggie options and sell a number of British products to-go. Other establishments may have come onto the scene but Rose is a breakfast mainstay.

For Michelin-starred chef Eric Frechon, opening a 110-seat restaurant in the heart of Paris‘s busiest train station (Gare St.-Lazare) was effectively a way to reconnect with his democratic, bistro past. The Bristol Hotel chef is an avowed proponent of no-fuss, simple food executed to perfection. He jumped at the chance to dedicate a space to his special brand of cooking when he was approached by the SNCF transport company to create a restaurant worthy of the station’s newly renovated image—a destination for transients and locals alike, open morning, noon, and night. Frechon stepped in to offer a wildly accessible, haute casual menu of French comfort classics in a gorgeous, lofty space that is equal parts café-bar and swish restaurant. In addition to the full menu, expect daily specials, a robust wine selection, and a standout dessert that will have you returning time and again: the Paris-Deauville, a sweet homage to Normandy, his birthplace, in the form of a caramelized, cold soufflé. The classic brasserie has experienced considerable decline in recent years, but with Lazare, Frechon revives the iconic lieu de vie with deft style.

With the opening of this salon-de-thé meets pâtisserie in August, the left bank got a lot more interesting. Graduates of Ferrandi cooking school, Charlotte Siles and Guillaume Gil sought to create a contemporary environment where gourmands of every age could protract the experience of tucking into a time-tested French treat - no need to rush out the door after purchasing that tarte au citron, you can cozy up with a book (or laptop, as it were) and enjoy your sinful snack with an espresso or cup of tea. When it came to designing the space, the couple took cues from Charlotte’s itinerant childhood, hewing to exotic decorative pieces, unique furnishings and a vibrant color palette to accent the white walls. That alone sets it apart from most tea salons. But the duo took it a step further, offering a market-fresh savory menu for lunch and brunch that is out of this world. So while most of what reigns cool in Paris is still situated rive droite, Colorova’s masterful mix of haute pâtisserie and design makes for one worthy reason to cross the river.

Cafe L’Eclair is everything you expect when you think of the perfect French cafe: delicious cafe au lait, croissants and tartine and a bonus, this cafe turns into a cocktail bar after dark. Another benefit of this lovely cafe is its location on rue Cler. You can order a cafe to go and wander the pedestrian street market to your heart’s content!

After ‘sans gluten’ found a place in the Parisian lexicon last year thanks to Helmut Newcake and more recently Noglu, vegan is the next buzzword to be embraced by locals in Paris. I still remember when dining out in the city was a daunting prospect for vegetarians. Vegans could simple forget about finding anything to fit within their diet. But as Anglo influences in food became more palpable, locals began to bemoan the paucity of veggie-friendly spots. Realizing the business potential, many food entrepreneurs and chefs have veered in new directions and strive to show just how fulfilling and flavorful vegetables can be. In the North Marais, the new go-to spot for vegan-friendly fare is Café Pinson. They cater to all forms of green lovers and have even infused some of that elusive kale* into their menu in the form of salads and smoothies. American chef Cameil Kaundart swaps refined sugar for agave syrup or non-refined sugar to sweeten up desserts and uses almond or hazelnut milk for all coffee and spiced tea beverages. A rainbow of fresh savory dishes changes regularly and you can expect a hearty range of salty-sweet treats for weekend brunch - just be sure to reserve ahead of time for a spot. *Kale was not accessible until recently in Paris

While the rum-soaked baba au rhum cake originated at Stohrer pâtisserie and is a classic, it’s the éclair au chocolat and the seasonal flavors (this winter’s include both salted caramel and chestnut cream) that deserve special attention. So do the majestic frescoes by artist Paul Baudry (famed for his décor in the Palais Garnier opera house) that adorn the shop’s walls and ceiling.

It also happens to be one of the oldest patisseries in Paris, and is absolutely worth dropping by on your next trip to the city for one of their delicious sweets.