A Perfect Day in San Sebastián

“Aquí, Se Guisa” is the motto at Borda Berri, one of the Old Town’s best pintxo bars. The star of every pintxo is a braised critter: beef, octopus, rabbit, you name it. There’s no pintxos on the bar at this spot, but don’t let that keep you from entering.

Santa María del Coro is San Sebastián‘s token beautiful European church. It has the quiet, sunlit beauty that one comes to expect in European churches. It also is the site of several of the city’s unique celebrations, organ concerts, and the iconic San Sebastián, pierced with the famed arrows.

Everyone knows a pintxo hop is a must-do in San Sebastián. What everyone doesn’t know is that Atari Gastroteka, located in the shadows of the old town’s beautiful Santa Maria church, is the perfect last stop on the tour. Their artisan foie is slightly sweet and incredibly flavorful, lightly sprinkled with cracked black pepper and sea salt, and served on raisin toast. Paired with a gin and tonic (some of the city’s best), it’s your ideal transition into postprandial nightlife. And Atari also has dessert pintxos for those in your group who want to end on a sweet note.

When someone tells me they’re traveling to Spain and looking for recommendations, San Sebastian (Donostia, in Basque) is my first thought for city destinations in the northern part of the country. It’s charming, beautiful, and steeped in history. Mount Urgull, the hill that stands on the right side of the bay, epitomizes all those characteristics in one easy to explore package. Mount Urgull is an easy walk from anywhere along the Promenade, and you can either walk up from Parte Vieja or walk around by the aquarium and the point to see views of the Bay of Biscay. I’ll recommend that you start with the second way and, coming back down, drop right into Parte Vieja. That way you get the best of both.

Zurriola beach is slightly off the radar, or at least as much off the radar as one of a city’s three beaches can be. The only tourists that typically venture over are of the surfing persuasion, and sitting to watch the sunset on the wall that borders the beach. Surf lessons are available from the stores that line the promenade. It’s the locals’ spot for hanging out, and the one beach that you should spend your days on if you are slumming in San Sebastián.

Be Bop is a staple in the San Sebastián night scene. If you are with a diverse group and uncertain how to reconcile their tastes, take them to Be Bop. Be Bop plays a wide range of music, from Michael Jackson to The Band to Bruno Mars. Drinks are cheap and the crowd is eclectic. It’s great for the hours before the discos begin to be crowded.

Pokhara, located in the center of the city, has one of the best ambiences around. The quintessential European café, with a touch of Paris and a touch of Spain, it attracts a younger, hip crowd. Don’t expect food beyond the obligatory croissants and tortilla española, but do try their carajillo. They put special care into this boozy alchoholic drink. First vodka or whisky (your choice—but choose whisky) is set aflame. Then a shot of espresso is pulled while the bartender whips body into cool, fresh cream. All of this goes into a glass to form the carajillo, one of the most delicious drinks known to man.