Zagreb is a city of sidewalk cafés, with Tkalča (as locals call the pedestrian Tkalčićeva Street that runs north of Ban Jelačić Square) as its epicenter. Prior to its paving in the 19th century, the historic street was a stream lined with watermills, separating the medieval towns of Kaptol and Gradec. Today, it’s a lively walkway, full of buzzy cafés and pastel-colored town houses straight out of a fairy tale. During your stroll, be sure to stop at the statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka, a celebrated Croatian writer who advocated for women’s rights back in the early 20th century and penned several novels set in Zagreb, including the Witch of Gric series.
