Tigre

To get from point A to B on the river delta, you’ll need to board a water taxi. These polished wood boats cruise the canals day and night, dropping passengers off and picking them up at rental houses, cabin complexes and restaurants along the way. The ride, of course, is part of the fun. Board one at the harbor - and make sure you know where it’s going before you sit down, or it might be awhile before you find yourself back in civilization.

Even if you have no interest in getting on a boat or exploring the wilder, less inhabited sections of the river delta, you can still enjoy water views and a do-it-yourself picnic. On arriving in Tigre, head for the Puerto de Frutos - a bustling indoor-outdoor marketplace known for its food shops and artisan goods - or just wander around the harbor. You’ll find delicious treats from chocolate-dipped waffles to passion-fruit smoothies, and plenty of grassy areas along the riverbanks where you can catch some rays and enjoy an al fresco lunch.

There’s a green one and a pink one, and a blue one and a yellow one - but they’re not made out of ticky tacky, and they don’t all look the same. Break out your camera: whatever kind of transportation you’re taking in the delta, you’re bound to see dozens of colorful, old-fashioned cottages lining the riverbanks, many on stilts above the water. Some are summer rentals, others are year-round family homes; one or two have even been declared historical sites. When you’re cruising by on a river ferry or taxi, it’s like peering out at the delta’s romantic past.

In the remote reaches of the delta, the river is relatively clean: but closer to the port, where the canals see plenty of motorboat traffic, you probably won’t want to dip a toe in the oil-slicked waters. That’s why so many locals come to Tigre for the sun - not the swimming. Recreational areas and cabin complexes along the banks offer grassy outdoor areas, trees for shade from the sun, chaise lounges and picnic tables. Keep your eye out for floating cantinas selling snacks and cold beer - or bring your own supplies from the port.

In the delta, river taxis take you where you need to go - and larger river ferries, departing from the Puerto de Frutos and the main harbor, take visitors on more leisurely delta cruises. Buy your ticket and climb aboard - note that many ferries feature a bar where you can order cold drinks - and watch the watery world roll by. Looking down at the private piers and old wooden cottages offers a glimpse of the uniquely laid-back delta culture that’s been attracting porteño weekenders for decades.