Fish from tins, fish whose fins were in the sea just this morning—they’re all stars at Saltie Girl, a compact seafood bar and restaurant in the Back Bay from Kathy Sidell of MET restaurant fame. Whether you love your seafood raw, smoked, fried, or—yes—out of a can, settle into one of the 11 stools in front of the active kitchen to watch as your dinner is prepared or, well, opened. Of course, you’re not paying top dollar for Chicken of the Sea here: The tinned seafood comes from small artisan producers, sustainably sourced, packed fresh, and shipped from around the world. Caviar, squid, anchovies, cod liver, and cockles are among the savories served cold with dipping sauces and crusty bread.