Restaurante Nicos

This all-but-plain-Jane spot—in Clavería, a neighborhood “no one” knows—is in fact among the most delightful lunches in the city, the project of architect turned chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo, who decided to take the neighborhood restaurant his parents had run for decades to the next culinary level, yet without ever losing touch with his roots. The queen-bee hostess and waitstaff make sure every diner feels special, with plenty of talk about what’s fresh this season—and what’s so good it’s about to run out. Items on offer cover everything from refined versions of street classics to exquisite, almost exotic, wild-game preparations whose recipes come from some of Mexico’s remotest corners. Live music and an excellent mezcal cart sweeten the already delicious deal.

At first glance, the sudden appearance of Nicos on “best of” lists—including San Pellegrino’s “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants” roster—seems a bit odd: after all, it’s been around since 1957. Its working-class neighborhood and decidedly non-trendy interior design also set it apart from many of its peers on such lists. Taste any of the dishes prepared here, however, and it’s easy to understand why Nicos is often referenced in the superlative. Add truly outstanding service in a city that’s known for attentive waitstaff, plus details like a roving mezcal cart and table-side preparation of many dishes—and you’ll see why diners often linger over their meals for hours.