Getting to Onar Andros requires a fair amount of determination. A ferry from Athens or Mykonos takes you to one of the northernmost Cycladic islands (there’s no airport nearby); once you arrive at the port in Gavrio, it’s a slow 25-mile drive to the hotel. Your reward, however, is a tiny slice of Eden, an enclave of 10 stone-and-timber cottages set amid a lush river valley that’s only a five-minute walk to Ahia Beach, arguably the most beautiful in all the Cyclades. Built and maintained by the owner, Mateo, the accommodations are deliberately spare yet modern and comfortable, each with a pergola-shaded veranda with loungers and a hammock. Meals are served at a communal table, and what Mateo doesn’t grow organically, he sources from local fisherman, farmers, and bakers. Guests can even accompany him to pick fruits and vegetables to be used in that night’s dinner. After all, this is a place to ditch your devices and surrender to your surroundings.
