Sometimes overshadowed by more glamorous southern French cities, Montpellier comes as a surprise to many visitors when they stroll its lovely medieval old town, filled with boutiques and bistros, and with the vibrancy of university life in the air. In an enormous renovated mansion, the Musée Fabre has vaulted to major-art-museum status with a collection of French masters like Poussin and painters from the Fauvist movement, as well as a notable decorative arts collection.