Kapani food market is a colorful introduction to Thessaloníki’s celebrated food scene. In the narrow arcades, butchers, spice vendors and fishmongers clamor for the attention of bargain hunters. Vats of glistening olives, tubs of feta in brine and necklaces of pungent sausages are strategically placed to lure passersby. In the covered Modiano market nearby, locals chew the fat in smoky meze joints that haven’t changed since the 1960s and never seem to close.