The sheaves of wheat that decorate the interior of Emmer & Rye signal one of the staples of chef Kevin Fink’s kitchen: heritage grains. The restaurant mills its own flour to make ribbons of pappardelle and robust spaghetti into a creamy nest of cacio e pepe. Episodes of The Splendid Table radio show play over the restroom speakers—a charming and idiosyncratic touch that attests to the kitchen’s commitment to its work. A dedication to fermentation and scratch cooking makes this fine-dining restaurant an elevated retreat amid the boozy lineup along popular Rainey Street.
