Dulce Patria

Never underestimate the power of shocking pink. The intimate but lively dining room at Dulce Patria—the smash hit by celebrity chef Martha Ortiz—feels not unlike a stage set. Soon after 2 p.m., it starts to fill with high-powered ladies-who-lunch types, cooing over a menu of updated Mexican classics with extravagant, architectural presentations that are at least half the fun. That said, chef Ortiz’s flavorful sculptures really deliver: Tastes are delicate, authentic, and quite delicious. The well-balanced offering presents ample choices without overwhelming, in favorites like the corn-kernel soup, a full portfolio of quesadillas, duck mole, and an extravagant dessert list (gelatin lovers rejoice) that really does drive home the dulce part. A recent seating included telenovela stars and a former Señor Presidente. And who knew there were so many edible flowers?

The author of a half dozen Mexican cookbooks and former owner of such lauded Mexico City restaurants as Águila y Sol, chef Martha Ortiz Chapa opened Dulce Patria in 2011. The daughter of an artist, Chapa prepares modern Mexican fare—from squash blossom and pine nut quesadillas to a tomato salad seasoned with the native epazote herb and grasshoppers—with attention to the smallest details. Tortillas come hand-pressed with violet pansies, and glorias (milk candies) and other sweets are served in colorful wooden toy trucks and carousels.

Chef Martha Ortiz serves up some of the most beautiful presentations you will ever see. The place is chic, the attention to detail is meticulous, and the tequila is wonderful (you won’t believe the chasers). And did I forget to mention the food is delicious?

Located just behind Hotel Las Alcobas, Dulce Patria is the always-busy (reservations essential) restaurant of Chef Martha Ortiz Chapa, who is endlessly inspired by regional Mexican cooking traditions, which she inflects with contemporary techniques and touches. Ortiz is often celebrated for her creative plating and presentations, which include “alegrias” (bon bons and other candies, served after dessert) that appear at your table in wooden airplanes or on hand-painted shelves and chairs, all made by Mexican artisans. The food itself, though, is just as praiseworthy, as are her artisanal cocktails, and her menus, which change regularly, are typically devised around a subtle cultural, culinary, artistic, or literary theme.

Most people go for the meal, but Dulce Patria, Martha Ortiz Chapa’s restaurant in Polanco, also offers beautiful and delicious artisanal cocktails that are presented with as much creativity and care as her entrees. As with its food, the restaurant’s cocktail menu features Mexican ingredients, including cactus fruit, horchata, and mezcal. Each drink is decorated with a special touch, either edible—say, a pansy—or decorative.

This was the best dining experience we had in Mexico City. Chef Martha Ortiz lives her passion for the flavors of Mexico. Sitting opposite the reception area we began the evening with a visual feast of a stunning arrangement of deep red gladiolus rising out of a large black vase. Service was impeccable. Our waiter patiently walked us through the menus (regular and seasonal) and explained the many ingredients and where they came from. Following his advice, we savored the creaminess of a squash soup and the complex herb and pepper-infused flavors of two very different fish dishes, escolar and sea bass. Before our entrees came we indulged in various rolls filled with cheese, black bean paste, or mole. Because our visit coincided with Mexico’s Independence Day, some rolls were topped with red and green stripes flavored with sweet peppers, recalling the colors of the Mexican flag. We could not finish the rolls but wanted to try every one of them so our waiter put them in a box with a few extras to take home. We ended our meal with a cup of Mexican hot chocolate, accompanied by a selection of cookies and candies served on a tray with this brightly colored bird.