Family-run Ruggero is a bit of a hike from the centre of town, but in my mind, it is the best traditional trattoria in Florence, so worth the effort. You can expect textbook versions of Florentine classics from ribollita (a hearty bean-and-bread-based vegetable soup) to arista al forno (rosemary and garlic-spiked roast loin of pork), and an authentic, friendly atmosphere.