Clown Bar—its name inspired by the neighboring Cirque d’Hiver (winter circus)—has a decorative border from the 1920s depicting clowns at play along with green, yellow, and white tiled walls and a curving zinc bar. If the decor makes you smile, the friendly and professional service will too: You’ll get expert advice on the natural wines on offer and how best to pair them with the food. The waitstaff is also helpful with explaining the menu, which lists only three ingredients for each dish. With the historical surroundings as backdrop, diners savor modern cuisine that blends French classics with influences brought by the chef from his native Japan, like a foie gras en croûte enlivened with bright tones of yuzu. In temperate weather, opt for a table under the red awning.
