The place to start any visit to New Caledonia is with the people who first settled the islands. See how the Kanak lived, the art they made and how they’re preserving their culture at the Centre Culturel Jean-Marie Tjibaou, the absolute must-do in Nouméa. The Kanak, like so many other local groups in the Pacific, are working hard to bring back knowledge of the old ways; some of the first attempts to get the French out of the Pacific came from the Kanak. By exploring how they lived, you’ll understand what they want to bring back.