Swoops of smooth, scarlet earth overlook Dominica’s northeast coast near Calibishie. At Point Baptiste, a mile-long coral reef protects the seashore, creating a calm lagoon. Farther down the coast, however, the Atlantic erodes and slaps waves high onto the dramatic headland. If you visit Point Baptiste Beach, know that a caretaker sometimes requests a donation from foreigners. Still, it’s a small price to pay for exploring this spectacular landscape of black sand, red rock, and splendid mountain views, which are especially beautiful at dusk.