Hiking on the Nakasendo trail in the Gifu and Nagano Prefectures of central Japan, I encounter more Buddhist jizo statues, waterfalls with ancient lore, and family farms than people. Such is the allure of rural Japan for outdoor enthusiasts or those simply wanting to avoid visiting crowds. The 331-mile trail in Kiso Valley provides respite with its brawny cedar and cypress trees but also serves a functional purpose.
Beginning in the 17th century, the Nakasendo trail connected Kyoto and Edo, now modern-day Tokyo. Along this path, 69 designated post towns operated as resting stations where weary travelers could replenish their supplies and get a good night’s rest. On my five-mile journey from Tsumago to Magome, I retrace the steps of shogun and samurai, visiting two post towns along the Nakasendo that look much as they did in their feudal heyday.
Commencing the daylong adventure in Tsumago, Nagano’s southernmost post town roughly midway along the Nakasendo, I am struck by the absence of noise. The only sounds come from a small watermill at the town entrance and the occasional shopkeeper preparing for the day’s customers. The town maintains a watchful eye when it comes to tourism, even though the income that local businesses bring in from visitors is important.
Japan’s Nakasendo trail exposes travelers to countryside scenery.
Photo by Urban Napflin/Shutterstock
“To preserve Tsumago village is to protect the heritage and culture of the common people of Japan. Once lost, it can never be regained,” says Yoshinori Fujihara, chairman of Tsumago-wo-aisuru-kai, a grassroots organization whose name translates to “society of people who love Tsumago.”
Their Residents’ Charter, which was created in 1971 after the town hosted a memorial for the 100th anniversary of the Meiji period and foresaw risks associated with tourism, is the main governing authority on conservation in the village. It forbids the destruction of surrounding farmlands and forests, bans advertisements, and regulates vehicle traffic. The group, which is the only one of its kind among the post towns in Kiso, also oversees the upkeep of the old-style buildings to maintain the Edo atmosphere.
Fujihara tells me the post towns must be treated as cultural assets rather than theme parks to protect them from overtourism. He adds that the Kiso landscape, which is 89 percent forest and home to 11 post towns, “belongs to everyone.” I’m equally surprised and impressed to learn that outside investors are strictly prohibited, as such investments would siphon revenue away from the town and preservation projects.
Another surprise from “old Japan” awaits me halfway along the walk from Tsumago to Magome. In a 250-year-old Edo-period building, shopkeeper Akihiko Matsubara pours me a cup of green tea and tells me he’s run the Tateba Tea House for 13 years. Funded by the local community and visitor donations, the shop invokes traditions of the past, providing a hospitable resting place for travelers today just as it would have centuries ago.
Around three hours after leaving Tsumago, I approach Magome’s northern entrance and climb to the Jinbakami observation deck. Looking out from the highest point in the village at the forested valley below, it’s difficult to imagine that it was once depleted for lumber. The subsequent ban on mass-logging in early Edo years by the ruling Owari lords allowed the forest to recover and was the first step of many the region would take toward environmental conservation.
While strolling the main street of Magome, which is lined with restaurants and ryokan-style inns, I stumble into a shop selling shikki, also known as artisanal lacquerware. The wooden craft is a symbol of the reciprocal relationship the towns share with the valley: The forest gives its trees, and in return, the community provides protection. Visitors can take home a piece of the Kiso Valley in the form of glazed bowls and bento boxes forged from the forest trees, a reminder of the importance of conservation.
Travelers on the Nakasendo Trail can encounter small villages and waterfalls.
Sean Pavone/Shutterstock (L); Tomisei/Shutterstock (R)
How to visit Japan’s post towns
To get to the 11 post towns in Kiso from major cities like Kyoto or Tokyo, take the bullet train to Nagoya Station. From there, take the JR Shinano Limited Express line to the station closest to your desired starting point.
To trek all 100 miles of the Nakasendo through Nagano, plan to hit the trail for five to seven days. If you have only one day, a great option is the hike from Tsumago-Juku to Magome-Juku. If you’re up for a challenge, the four-mile stretch from Narai to Yabuhara is considered one of the more difficult hikes. Be sure to allot two to three hours to explore each town.
In Tsumago, travelers can visit the 200-year-old Wakihonjin-Okuya Inn—where caretakers uphold Edo-era traditions, such as lighting a fire in the hearth to ward away insects—and the Nagiso Town Museum to learn about the history of Kiso Valley. Send mail to friends and family with a post town stamp only found at the Tsumago post office, and visit the Local Postal History Museum. On the hike to Magome, look for the Odaki and Medaki Falls, where legend says a golden rooster perches and cries out to report the time.
In Magome, learn about local culture during the Edo period at Magome Wakihonjin Museum or about the local poet and Japanese naturalism author, Shimazaki Toson, at Toson Memorial Museum. Stay at the Eishoji Temple and experience Zen meditation and vegetarian cuisine.
Places like Wakihonjin-Okuya Inn offer traditional cultural experiences.
Photo by Haley Harrison
Helpful tips for visiting Japan’s post towns
Travelers can hire Nakasendo Luggage Transfer Service to ship bags to their next accommodation. The Tsumago-Magome tourist information center offers same-day delivery service between Magome and Tsumago.
Weather-wise, I visited in May and found late spring to be an ideal time to visit, although the chances of rain are higher. You can expect temperate weather in the fall, high temperatures in the summer, and snow in the winter.
Keep in mind that there are black bears in the area. Locals recommend traveling in groups or wearing a “bear bell” to alert the bears to your presence and avoid encounters.
While the trail has signs in English and thus is navigable even if you don’t know Japanese, remember that many people you see in the towns are residents. Respect their privacy, limit noise, carry your trash, and engage in good travel etiquette.
