In the 20th century, Detroit brought us the motor vehicle and Motown music. When visiting today, you’ll wonder: What does Detroit have in store for us in the 21st century? To answer that question, look to the people of Detroit, who have been resilient in the face of the city’s turbulent past. A natural extension of that is innovation, which travelers can witness everywhere from the city’s new electric, self-driving public transport to the thriving stalls at its farmers’ market.
As a majority-Black city, Detroit is a hub for Black culture and small business owners. It’s also a vibrant home to Hispanic, Arab, and Polish communities. They are all reflected in the city’s diverse cuisine and cultural establishments.
“The people [in Detroit] are amazing. . . . The diversity is huge. We have people from all over the world right here in Detroit, and it’s something to be proud of,” says Hamissi Mamba, a refugee from Burundi and co-owner of the acclaimed Detroit restaurant Baobob Fare, and quadruple-nominated James Beard Award finalist.
Culture-focused travelers might be surprised by Detroit’s caliber of museums, thanks to its history as a 1920s boomtown. “We have outsized, excellent cultural institutions like the Detroit Opera House, and the Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA),” says Emily Linn, a seventh-generation Detroiter and co-owner of City Bird, a Michigan-themed gift shop in Midtown. “I think given our current population [size], we wouldn’t be so lucky to have these places, so it often surprises people who haven’t been to Detroit before.”
This thought is echoed by Juana Williams, art historian and former associate curator of African American Art at the DIA. “In 1950, Detroit was actually one of the wealthiest cities in the world,” she says. “In more contemporary times, people don’t recognize that because they just see the result of population decline. But I think of Detroit as this phoenix that just refuses to not keep rising.” Explore Detroit for yourself over a four-day weekend, with inside tips from these three local Detroiters.
Day One: Explore Midtown museums and try a coney dog
Check in to your hotel: Midtown, downtown, and Corktown are all good locations. Then head out for brunch at Babo, an all-day diner in Midtown. “Order the chicken and waffles,” says Mamba; they come with a bourbon-cayenne honey and buttermilk batter. “I’m very particular with the freshness of oil, quality of meat, and how food is presented. What I love about [Babo] is it’s really fresh.”
After brunch, walk three minutes to the Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA), which picked up an award for best art museum in the country in 2024. Here you can while away hours exploring world-class exhibits, or join the museum’s regular “drawing in the galleries” events. “The Rivera Court is my favorite area of the museum,” says Williams. “This is probably true for a lot of people, because we have the famous Detroit Industry Murals by Diego Rivera.” Mamba also loves it for its open space and natural light. “You can just sit still and not have so much to think about or to do.”
If you’re more science-oriented—or have antsy kids in tow—opt for the neighboring Michigan Science Center with its interactive exhibits. History buffs can visit the Detroit Historical Museum, located catty-corner from the DIA on Woodward. The Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit (MOCAD) are also nearby.
Go for dinner after stopping to freshen up at your hotel. A Detroit coney dog (which is a beef hotdog slathered in a meaty, bean-less chili, yellow mustard, diced onions, swaddled in a steamed bun) is a must, and you have a few options. “I actually did a whole survey of folks for a little coney dog project,” says Linn. “There’s this classic debate between Lafayette and American, and I think Lafayette probably has more locals’ hearts than American,” she says. “American’s more touristy.” The rivaling Coney Islands (the term for coney dog restaurants in Detroit) are located next door to one another in downtown Detroit, which is an easy QLine journey from Midtown.
Alternatively, for those who prefer a hole-in-the-wall, drive or take an Uber to Southwest Detroit. “Anyone I know who’s a real Detroiter would say Duly’s Place in Southwest was their favorite,” says Linn. This neighborhood Coney Island has been operating for more than 100 years and was praised by Anthony Bourdain during his 2013 visit while filming Parts Unknown. “Every time I visit Detroit, somebody asks me if I’ve had a good Coney yet,” Bourdain later wrote. “Apparently, I never had a great one. I finally got one. I understand now.”
Eastern Market is the country’s largest outdoor market, with 43 acres of stands selling produce and serving food.
Photo by Sylvia Jarrus
Day Two: Eat crepes at Eastern Market and explore on foot
If your second day in Detroit aligns with a Saturday, do as the locals do and drive or Uber to Eastern Market. This is the nation’s largest outdoor farmers’ market, spanning 43 acres. Mamba says he visits every Saturday with his kids. Their first stop is always the French Cow, in shed 5, for a Nutella, almond, and coconut crepe.
Take your time and wander the bustling sheds, where you’ll find flowers, produce, baked goods, and artisanal crafts. Mamba’s best advice is not to rush. “People in Michigan, in Detroit, like to socialize. Ask a question, and they’re going to be more than happy to have a conversation,” he says.
For lunch, dine at Supino Pizzeria, which is walkable from the farmers’ market. No, this isn’t Detroit-style pizza (that’s tomorrow), but a hot spot for crispy, thin-crust East Coast–style pizzas. Linn, a vegetarian, recommends the Supino. “Their namesake pizza is one of my favorites. It has ricotta and garlic and Kalamata olives.”
If you’re driving and an art lover, this is a good time to take a side quest to Heidelberg Project, a unique outdoor found-art installation in the McDougall-Hunt neighborhood. Artist Tyree Guyton started it in 1986 as he transformed his neighborhood block—with a polka-dot painted house, a half-buried pink Jeep, and more. His was an innovative response to urban blight. “What’s interesting about Tyree’s work is that it’s very Detroit-focused,” says Williams. “I think what you see in his work is similar to what we see in Detroit at large, which is that Detroit had hard times, but we always figure out how to make something out of it. Detroiters make opportunities for ourselves.”
Next, head back to downtown Detroit and spend the remaining afternoon and evening exploring the Detroit International RiverWalk, a three-mile trail through both green and urban spaces. If you’re car-less and skipped the Heidelberg Project, you could extend the walk by taking the Dequindre Cut Greenway directly from Eastern Market to where it meets up with the RiverWalk, before strolling toward downtown. End your day with a dinner reservation at Cliff Bell’s, an iconic Detroit jazz club dating back to the Prohibition era.
The gourmet chocolates at Bon Bon Bon draw both locals and visitors.
Photo by Sylvia Jarrus
Day Three: Shop for unique gifts and visit Detroit’s Irish neighborhood
Begin your day at Warda Patisserie in Midtown, a tiny bakery recommended by all three of our locals. Warda Bouguettaya, the owner and head pastry chef, won a James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2022—Detroit’s first in over 30 years. Order a coffee, breakfast quiche or shakshuka morning bun, and something sweet. Mamba’s favorite is the passionfruit hibiscus tart, especially in wintertime: “Passionfruit reminds you that we are not cold in Michigan,” he says. “There is a uniqueness and creativity at [Warda Patisserie] that you can’t get somewhere else—it’s just an experience, honestly.”
After, pop into shops along Woodward Avenue and Cass Corridor. For spots near her store, City Bird, Linn recommends Jack White’s Third Man Records for vinyl records, Shinola for watches and leather-bound journals (get your initials embossed with gold), Bon Bon Bon for gourmet chocolates, and Source Booksellers for nonfiction books.
Next, take an Uber to Corktown, Detroit’s historically Irish neighborhood, known for its red brick paved road, trendy restaurants, and the newly refurbished Michigan Central. The long-derelict train station turned Ford Motor startup and tech hub is now open to the public for tours, but book in advance. “I think it’s probably the most important historic preservation win the city’s had in modern history,” says Linn. “It’s just gorgeous. I think that’s a must-see, and it’s a great jumping off point for exploring Corktown, too.”
Lunch options in the area abound. Ima, a Japanese izakaya, is loved by Mamba for the umami and spice in its seaweed kimchi. Brooklyn Street Local is another of his favorites for its poutine, and because the restaurant gives back to the community. “I really love them so much,” says Mamba. “We are here because the first pop-up that we did in this country was because they donated their space to us.” If you have time, stop by Eldorado General Store and Boro for vintage shopping in Corktown.
Studio A, in the Motown Museum, is the legendary birthplace of some of the United States’ most-loved songs.
Photo by Sylvia Jarrus
After lunch, head to the Motown Museum, which is obligatory for music fans visiting Detroit, particularly in the midst of the museum’s ongoing expansion project. For dinner, it’s time for Detroit-style pizza. Michigan & Trumbull is not the originator of Detroit-style pizza—that claim goes to Buddy’s. But it’s chef Mamba’s favorite spot for crispy bases and fresh toppings, and the restaurant is conveniently located by the Motown Museum.
This evening, design your own craft-cocktail tour. You can’t go wrong with Dragonfly for community focus and excellent mocktails, Kiesling for neighborhood bar vibes and handcrafted cocktails, and Castalia at Sfumato for experimental cocktails paired with fragrances.
Day Four: Drive to Belle Isle in the Detroit River
A sprawling island and state park, Belle Isle is cherished by Detroiters.
Photo by Sylvia Jarrus
On your fourth and final day in Detroit, stop for a coffee and quick but indulgent breakfast at Sister Pie. Williams recommends including a slice of salted maple pie with any order. Then drive to Belle Isle. This 985-acre island and state park in the Detroit River boasts views over both Detroit and Windsor, Canada. “You don’t have to stay all day like most of us do, but you have to experience Belle Isle,” says Williams.
The Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory, a historic indoor plant house that recently reopened after two years of renovations, and the Belle Isle Aquarium, which holds the title as North America’s oldest aquarium, are open year-round. You can also wander the Oudolf Garden, designed by Piet Oudolf, whose work you might recognize from New York City’s High Line.
During the warmer months, Detroiters love to picnic on the island. Alternatively, drive over the bridge for a casual lunch at Marrow, a zero-waste whole-animal butcher shop and bistro that neighbors Sister Pie.
Here, your options diverge depending on the season. In the warmer months, head to Detroit River Sports for a (prebooked) private kayak tour of Detroit’s canals: It’s a memorable activity for savvy travelers who want to see a corner of the city that many locals don’t even know about. For dinner, Coriander Kitchen & Farm offers an outdoor patio overlooking the canals. “It’s two women who own it, a farmer and a chef, and they grow a lot of their own food. Being on the canals is so ideal, especially in the summer,” says Linn.
If you’re visiting Detroit in winter, skip the kayaking tour and use this time to visit a few more of Detroit’s cultural institutions. Stop first at Pewabic, for Detroit-made Polish pottery souvenirs, before driving to the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation. It’s in Dearborn, a suburb of Detroit, about 25 minutes by car or rideshare but a worthwhile journey to learn about Detroit’s automobile titan and other American innovators.
Where to stay in Detroit
There’s no shortage of interesting hotels in Detroit, thanks to a slew of boutique openings over the past few years.
To base yourself in Midtown, which our Detroit locals recommend, consider the brand-new AC Hotel Detroit at the Bonstelle, which opened in January 2025. You’ll be steps from Little Caesar’s Arena—where you can see the Detroit Redwings or Pistons play, or attend a concert—and walking distance to the DIA and Comerica Park. Stop by the Conservatory, the hotel’s on-site bar, for a gin-based cocktail and tapas.
El Moore Lodge is another option in Midtown, albeit less traditional hotel and more sustainable urban lodge. The Victorian building was renovated into an 11-room hotel and 12 residential apartments with sustainability at its core courtesy of a number of initiatives including geothermal heating, solar generation, rainwater harvesting, and more. Rooms range from garden-level bunk-rooms to luxurious rooftop cabins.
Getting around Detroit
You’ll likely arrive at Detroit Metro Airport, where you can either rent a car (this is Motor City, after all), or take Detroit Air Xpress, the new public bus line, into the city. To orient yourself, Woodward Avenue is the central artery of Detroit. Downtown is toward the riverfront, and more northerly along Woodward you’ll find Midtown, the cultural district. Detroiters infamously hate walking and will drive even short distances. The QLine (a streetcar that runs the length of Woodward) and Detroit People Mover (an elevated light rail that loops around downtown) are both free, and good public transport options for visitors. They’ll likely have to be supplemented with Uber if you venture beyond the more touristed areas and choose to go car-less.
