From above, it was an extraordinary watercolor painting—an abstract work that extended for miles. The composition shifted as we helicoptered over the landscape: contours of white sand, pools of sapphire, brushstrokes of deep green. We flew along the ocean edge until all of the shapes came into focus, making up the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago, eight miles off the coast of southern Mozambique.
One of those islands is Benguerra, home to the Kisawa Sanctuary resort, where we would be staying and photographing over the next few days. After a one-and-a-half-hour flight from Johannesburg to the beach town of Vilanculos, it’s a 15-minute helicopter ride to the island. Kisawa has 11 private residences, sustainably built using 3D printing techniques, each with its own acre of beachfront property, a private pool, and an electric Moke (jeep) for navigating the island.
Our guide, Querino, who goes by Q, grew up on the island and has balanced his life between the local community, tourism, and marine conservation. “The first time I took some tourists from Vilanculos out on a dhow (a local wooden sailboat), their response was just ‘Wow.’ It was then that I first understood what an amazing place I am from.”
Q now works as Kisawa’s head guide and spends his days snorkeling, boating, and sharing stories with guests about the unique marine habitat that exists here. “I like to invite people to dive. When I dive, it’s one of the best days of my life, because underwater is unbelievable. It’s magical seeing the coral reefs and watching the behavior of the fish. I like to keep guests excited, to work together to protect this, because this is our home.” Kisawa partners with the Bazaruto Center for Scientific Studies, an ocean observatory where guests can visit and participate in research activities such as gathering marine data or tracking whale migration routes. Here’s a photographic collection of the people and places from my trip around the Bazaruto Archipelago.
Left: Amelia, from Benguerra Island, works on Kisawa’s housekeeping team. Right: After a day of shooting and lugging cameras around, the wellness center was the perfect place for a bit of rest. It offers a range of therapies, massages, and yoga for guests.
Each guest’s residence comes with a private pool and an outdoor kitchen area, with thatched roofs designed with curves similar to the region’s sand dunes.
Our guide, Q (bottom, center), introduced us to some local people who were net-fishing. Typically families share the responsibilities; one brother might captain the boat, one manages the engine, and the women pull the net. Every person has their role, and the fish are split at the end of the day. In recent years, fishing regulations have been put in place, so locals know the boundaries of where they are allowed to fish, while other regions are off-limits to keep the coral reefs and other marine wildlife protected.
Joao, from Benguerra Island, is part of Kisawa’s beach and marine activities team. “I started swimming at eight years old. I’m best when I’m at the beach. It’s in my nature,” he said. “When I was coming back from school, I was always going to the beach. On this island, it’s the best thing to do.” Today, Joao provides guests with kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, or lounge chairs.
The Bazaruto Archipelago comprises five main islands and is part of Bazaruto Archipelago National Park, which has been a protected area since 1971. Dugongs, whales, and dolphins are just a few of the marine mammals you might see.
Q took us by boat over to Bazaruto Island to hike the dunes. We ascended a smooth hill of sand, feeling the sensation of both climbing and gliding at the same time. The clouds above created pools of light and shade across the valleys. Sinking into the deep, soft sand, we arrived at a rounded hilltop with views of the bright blue ocean in the distance.
Fernando, from Bazaruto Island, is part of Kisawa’s kitchen team and works as a chef at the main terrace, one of four restaurants available to guests. “I’m proud of this place. I face many challenges in life but accept them and am doing my whole job from the heart.”
