When the Orient Express made its inaugural journey in 1883, it revolutionized travel, allowing passengers to take a single mode of transportation all the way across Europe. With its comfortable sleeping quarters, elegant restaurant, and salons that housed smoking compartments and ladies’ drawing rooms, it became popular among Europe’s elite, including royalty. The Jet Age, when commercial air travel took off, spelled disaster for the legendary train, which discontinued service in 1977. And while it was partially revived as the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (now run by Belmond), a new age is dawning for the Orient Express. The iconic brand will operate luxury trains, hotels, and yachts, in a joint venture by Accor Group and LVMH, which have partnered with Italian hospitality group Arsenale for the Italian assets.
As a Rome-based journalist, I regularly take Italy’s high-speed trains, but when I had the chance to board the new La Dolce Vita Orient Express for its inaugural journey from Rome to Montalcino, I knew this trip would be different. I didn’t even mind that a journey that normally would have taken a couple of hours lasted an entire day. From the moment I stepped into the luxurious lounge at Ostiense Station to when I returned the next morning, I embraced the art of slow travel and the chance to really appreciate the landscapes I normally speed by. In between, I savored a leisurely lunch by one of Rome’s most decorated chefs, got to know my fellow passengers, enjoyed a tour and dinner at a historic Tuscan winery, and rattled a tambourine as a charming singer entertained everyone in the bar car with rousing renditions of classic songs.
The first of six trains, La Dolce Vita Orient Express currently offers eight itineraries in Italy lasting one or two nights. In addition to the Taste of Tuscan Vineyards trip that I experienced, there are routes that go from Rome to Venice and Portofino; pass through the under-the-radar region of Abruzzo and stop in Matera, known for its ancient cave dwellings; and cross the Strait of Messina on a ferry before bringing guests to Taormina and Palermo in Sicily. Here’s what to expect aboard and how to book.
Midcentury-inspired design and luxe accommodations
As you might expect from the name, this train embraces the 1960s glamour of the Dolce Vita era. It was designed by Milan-based Dimorestudio, which incorporated plenty of midcentury references. The bar car, for example, features a diamond pattern reminiscent of Gio Ponti’s Arlecchino train, which debuted in 1960 and has recently been revived. Black-and-white photographs of Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, and other movie stars decorate the hallways between cabins.
There are two different accommodations to choose from: deluxe cabins and suites; each can accommodate a maximum of two passengers. Deluxe cabins have a sofa bed that folds out at night, while the larger suites have a comfortable bed, separate sofa, and a black lacquer table with two chairs. Both have a bathroom with a toilet, sink, and shower, plus amenities like a plush robe and slippers. In my suite, there were little folding trays next to the bed and a USB port so I could charge my phone. My carry-on suitcase easily fit in a corner of the suite; deluxe cabins have an overhead luggage rack. Guests traveling with more than a carry-on can store large suitcases at the lounge.
There are 31 cabins, including 18 sumptuous suites that feature full-size beds.
Photo by Mr. Tripper
Gourmet meals by a renowned chef
The cuisine is a highlight on the train. My journey started with a welcome drink (a cappuccino in my case) in the lounge at Ostiense Station and continued with a decadent five-course lunch devised by Heinz Beck, the chef behind Rome’s only three-Michelin-star restaurant, La Pergola. Each menu is inspired by the train’s route, so on the Rome-to-Tuscany trip, I savored dishes like panzanella (Tuscan bread salad) with prawns and pumpkin gnocchi with mushrooms and black kale.
The next morning, I opted to have continental breakfast in my suite. My cabin steward brought a tray with a bread and pastry basket, butter, jam, a selection of cheeses, smoked salmon, fresh fruit, orange juice, and a cappuccino. If you choose to have breakfast in the dining car, you can order à la carte.
Excursions to dreamy Italian locales
Each itinerary gives you the chance to choose at least one or two excursions at an extra cost. I joined some of my fellow passengers for a tour and tasting dinner at Argiano Winery, which has been producing Brunello di Montalcino for nearly 500 years. The visit started with a tour of the owner’s private collection of medieval and Renaissance art, followed by a peek at the cellar to see the barrels and enjoy an aperitivo. We then had a four-course dinner paired with various vintages of the winery’s Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino.
Typically, guests have either lunch or dinner on the train, but not both. If you have lunch onboard, then you can choose an excursion that includes dinner or go off on your own and dine at a restaurant of your choice.
Entertainment onboard
Upon returning to the train after dinner, we were invited to the bar car for live music and drinks. I sipped a glass of franciacorta, an Italian sparkling wine, as Rome-based American singer Tess Amodeo Vickery—who’s related to Frank Sinatra—serenaded us with classic songs like “Mambo Italiano” and “New York, New York.” She even handed out tambourines and encouraged us to shake them and sing along. After she finished her set, a DJ came on to keep the party going.
The cost
Prices for La Dolce Vita Orient Express start at $3,500 per person for a deluxe cabin. Tickets can be purchased at orient-express.com.
