On December 3, I woke up to a flurry of texts from concerned friends. Overnight during a televised address, South Korean President Yoon Suk Yeol abruptly declared martial law (temporary military rule over a civilian government), plummeting the country’s capital city into panic. A mere six hours later, following mass protests in front of the National Assembly building, parliament unanimously rejected Yoon’s decree. If the failed power shift proved one thing, it’s this: South Koreans are effective at swiftly mobilizing and using protests to uphold democracy.
As a Korean American who visits Seoul often and regularly covers the destination—I’d just returned from my third trip of the year days before the incident, I received a lot of questions from curious friends: What’s the city like right now, and how safe is it to travel there?
The Seoul I left behind on November 28 felt as dynamic as ever. From seeing my first cheotnun (first snow)—few sights are as stirring as your favorite city, quiet and dusted white—to comforting myself with Pyongyang naengmyeon (North Korean buckwheat noodles in cold beef broth) and soju (clear distilled liquor made from rice), and scouring the holiday pop-ups in the city’s hippest neighborhood Seongsu-dong, I packed in a lot during the trip. Little, if anything, foreshadowed what would happen one week later.
While in Seoul, the writer experienced her first snow in the city.
Photo by Ozone foto/Shutterstock
Since reversing the martial law, Yoon has been the subject of intense scrutiny, resulting in a failed impeachment attempt this past weekend and more recently, a ban on him traveling outside South Korea. Travel for Americans, however, is open and generally considered safe; to date, no countries have implemented a travel ban to South Korea. The U.S. State Department issued a Level 1 travel advisory for South Korea; 1 is the lowest on a scale of 1 to 4, indicating “Exercise Normal Precautions.” But what that means in practice requires some added context.
During these tense times when leadership is on shaky grounds, it’s best to practice common sense. On December 7, the U.S. Embassy and Consulate in the Republic of Korea issued a security alert for U.S. travelers, recommending they “avoid areas where demonstrations are taking place and exercise caution in the vicinity of any large crowds, gatherings, protests, or rallies.” Despite South Korea’s long and storied protesting culture that’s largely been without incident, things could unexpectedly escalate.
For the most part, locals don’t feel overly anxious or uneasy. “We understand that recent events may cause concerns, but we want to emphasize that Seoul remains a safe and vibrant destination,” says Kelly Wong, director of marketing at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. “Protests in South Korea are generally peaceful and well-managed, with minimal impact on daily life. The city quickly returns to normal after such events.”
Michael Ahn, the founder of Rakkojae, a family of boutique hanok (traditional Korean house) hotels, agrees. He comments, “People in Seoul continue to live their everyday lives. I believe South Korea is safe to visit, as it has always been.”
My friend and fragrance entrepreneur Soohyang Kim hasn’t noticed a major shift in locals’ lifestyles, either. She says, “While the process of holding those involved accountable remains, life is fairly normal for everyone.” On the day following Yoon’s declaration of martial law, schools across Seoul and the country were open. Essential businesses such as hospitals, grocery stores, and banks were operating as usual, too.
People roaming around as usual in the popular Starfield Library in COEX Mall in Seoul on December 8, 2024—five days after the brief martial law decree.
Photo by Kibok Rhee/Shutterstock
Although some hotel room cancellations and postponements happened in the wake of December 3, nearly all of them have been from foreign business travelers. “The majority of booking cancellations came from the government sector—they are more of a deferral to a future travel date—with only a few cancellations from international leisure clientele,” explains Wong. “Local guests are still socializing with restaurant dining and staycations.” Meanwhile, a Japanese client who’d scheduled a photo shoot at Ahn’s Seoul property canceled on December 4. Other than that incident, he says, “We did not receive a noticeable amount of cancellations.”
In terms of her international hotel guests who have been in town since last Tuesday, Wong has picked up on a common thread: “Foreign guests have been more impressed by the peaceful and well-organized nature of protests than worried about safety,” she says.
While the future of the national government hangs in the balance, Seoul and South Korea remain fully open as a travel destination. And despite the swirling political turmoil, the country’s restaurants, shops, hotels, cultural institutions, and people are waiting to welcome you. Just stay in tune with your surroundings, and you’ll have a rewarding and, equally important, safe vacation. I think Kim said it best: “If you’re planning a trip to South Korea, please proceed with joy and confidence—and a healthy sense of caution.”
I share my friend’s mindset. I had planned an early spring visit in 2025 for months, and the current political climate isn’t swaying me otherwise. Like the rest of the world, I’m keeping a close eye on South Korea and hopeful for a swift and peaceful resolution.
