Although Cambodia’s high season peaks during its drier, cooler months from November to March, I’m partial to the rainy season from June to October. My first trip to Angkor Wat, the 12th-century temple complex dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, was during this period, bouncing along in the back of a tuk-tuk puttering down glistening tarmac lined with towering trees. There’s nothing like the gleam of wet sandstone at the temples and the vibrant green forest foliage. The markets were overflowing with mangosteens—a sweet, tangy fruit that I can easily eat by the pound—along with mangoes and rambutans, which flourish during the wet months.
Monsoon season gets a bad rap, but it’s often blue skies with brief afternoon downpours. (Torrential deluges can occur, so I keep a poncho and camera dry bag handy.) Thanks to the rain, the temple exteriors are blanketed with a layer of green and yellowish moss and lichens. Dramatic cloud formations and reflective puddles make it a perfect setting for photography. Ask any Cambodian tour guide about the best time to visit and you’ll likely get the same answer I did: the end of the rainy season for the greenery. While Angkor Wat and nearby temples are never deserted, the crowds thin during the off season; with the right strategy, you can sneak in moments of quiet reflection among the centuries-old ruins.
Green season in Angkor Wat means reduced crowds.
Massimo Pizzotti / age fotostock
How to explore Angkor Wat during the off season
Take an alternate route
At sunrise, the tourist throngs descend on the west gate of Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious structure, to witness the dawn silhouette of the five-towered temple complex before pouring into its courtyards and galleries.
For a bit of solitude, start at the east gate where most crowds exit and work your way backward. At dawn, the sun shines directly on the east side and illuminates the detail of the sandstone carvings. This route provides instant access to the structure’s most famous bas-relief, “The Churning of the Ocean of Milk,” a 161-foot-long depiction of a mythical Hindu battle. Afterward, beat the queue to climb the steep steps to the Bakan, the 98-foot-high central tower, and explore the elaborate carvings of apsaras (celestial nymphs) in the connecting galleries. While sunrise is worth seeing, consider exploring the interior on this alternate route after 8 a.m. or 9 a.m. when most sunrise tours return to town for breakfast. To see the western entrance fully illuminated, return in late afternoon.
Stay longer to plan around the crowds
While Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious structure (measuring some 400 acres), there are other amazing sites in the 154-square-mile Angkor Archaeological Park. Purchase a three- or seven-day pass to explore further and maximize the cooler, less-crowded hours. (It’s hot year-round even in the cool season.) For fully crowd-free snaps of the gargantuan tree roots of Ta Prohm or the elegant pink sandstone of Banteay Srei, be the first in the door or last one out.
When the sunrise crowds are at Angkor Wat, spend the early morning hours photographing the reflections of the iconic statue-lined south gate of Angkor Thom and the recently restored and lesser-visited west gate. Take advantage of the eastward orientation of Bayon’s iconic face towers for a photo-centric morning visit. Many large tour groups return to Siem Reap for lunch, making midday a prime time to explore—but stick to shaded sites like tree-covered Ta Prohm and the vaulted corridors of Preah Khan to avoid the heat.
Explore lesser-visited sites
The most famous temples—Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, and Bayon—are famous for a reason, but there’s much more to Angkor. Don’t miss lesser-visited sites like the pyramid-style temples of Baphuon and Pre Rup. Take a peek at the elaborate Hindu carvings inside the five brick towers at Prasat Kravan or walk across an artificial lake to the island temple of Neak Poan. The seldom-visited Krol Romeas, a tall stone-walled circle built of laterite, may have once been used as an elephant corral and is worth a stop.
Take a road trip
The entirety of Cambodia is sprinkled with temples built by the same god-kings who ruled Angkor. Crowds dissipate the further you go from Siem Reap, especially in the off season. Hire a tuk-tuk for the short nine-mile ride east of town to Bakong, the largest temple of the Roluos group, which dates back to the 9th century—predating Angkor Wat.
For an immersive jungle experience, visit the unrestored 12th-century Beng Mealea located 34 miles from Siem Reap, or venture further to Koh Ker, a recent addition to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Hire a car to explore the deserted pre-Angkorian site of Sambor Prei Kuk or the famous face towers and elaborate bas-reliefs of Banteay Chhmar.
Where to stay
Off season is the best time to score a deal in one of Siem Reap’s nicest resorts. Indulge in the 115-foot swimming pool at the city’s first luxury hotel, the 1930s French art deco Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, which was polished up in a 2019 renovation. Golf fanatics will love the five-star comforts and convenience of the Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort.
