Hawaiʻi has been a vacation destination for travelers seeking sun, sand, and surf for decades. In 2023, more than 9.6 million visitors arrived in the islands, up 4.6 percent from 2022 and inching closer to pre-COVID arrival numbers. It may seem hard—if not impossible—to escape the crowds here, especially during peak travel seasons. But if you plan right, there are many ways to get off the tourist trail and experience a slower, more authentic Hawaiʻi, the place where I was born and raised.
I grew in Honolulu—the state capital and its largest city—and have spent decades as a newspaper reporter and magazine writer traveling across the Islands. It’s my literal job as a Hawaiʻi-based travel writer and editor to seek out the best parts of the state, from dining at family-run restaurants with secret recipes to summiting every major peak on Oʻahu. (Tough job, I know.) I have been to every island except for Kahoʻolawe—yes, the privately owned Niʻihau, included—and yet, Hawaiʻi never ceases to amaze me. You can experience this, too. Get out of resort areas, explore new neighborhoods, support locally owned businesses. Here are a few more ways to avoid the crowds and experience the Hawaiʻi I know and love.
Avoid summer and winter months
Everyone travels during the summer from mid-June through August, and everyone wants to escape winter in late December and early January by heading somewhere warm. No surprise, then, that Hawaiʻi sees the biggest influx of visitors during these two seasons. But thanks to year-round balmy temperatures—even the ocean temperatures remain between 73 to 80 degrees—Hawaiʻi is an ideal vacation spot any time of the year. Fall and spring—with the exception of spring break—draw fewer visitors and better deals on airfare, hotel rooms, and car rental rates. These two seasons offer unique experiences you can’t get any other time of the year, too.
The prestigious hula competition, the Merrie Monarch Festival, is held in April in Hilo on Hawaiʻi Island, and the popular Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival boasts days of culinary events on three different islands—Oʻahu, Maui, and Hawaiʻi Island—in October. And don’t forget the seasonal fruits, including strawberries (February to April); lilikoʻi, or passion fruit (June to December), and persimmon (September to November).
Via Gelato serves up ice cream sandwiches, gelato cake, and scoops in a variety of tempting flavors.
Photos courtesy of Via Gelato
Staying on Oʻahu? Get a rental car
It’s easy—and, yes, convenient—to book a hotel room in Waikīkī on Oʻahu and stay there. But not only will you be stuck in the island’s congested tourist hub, you’ll also be missing out on all the best parts of the island. While Oʻahu has the most extensive public transportation system of all the islands—the city buses can get you to every neighborhood and the state’s only bike-sharing program, Biki, allows you to explore urban Honolulu—renting a car is the best way to seek out less-crowded beaches, hole-in-the-wall eateries, and local haunts.
About three miles north of Waikīkī is the walkable neighborhood of Kaimukī, which boasts eclectic shops and restaurants. Foodies will love the range of styles and cuisines here, from the classic burgers at Chubbies Burgers to the imaginative, hyper-local menu at Mud Hen Water to the upscale, French-inspired Miro Kaimukī. Find books by local authors (and more) at the friendly Da Shop: Books + Curiosities, indulge in small-batch gelato in unusual flavors at Via Gelato, or browse Island-Boy for locally made products like the reef-safe Koa mineral sunscreen and whimsical artwork by Hawaiʻi Island artist Akiko Cutlip.
The Windward Side, meanwhile, boasts some of the island’s best beaches. While Lanikai Beach, with its view of the twin islets Nā Mokulua, has long lured beachgoers, nearby Kailua Beach, which spans 2.5 miles, is almost always less crowded and no less beautiful. A few miles east is the rural town of Waimānalo, where you can still see people riding horses along the two-lane Kalanianaʻole Highway. (This is where former U.S. President and Hawaiʻi native Barack Obama has a residence.) The beaches here are expansive and equally stunning—but with far fewer people, especially on weekdays.
Haleakala National Park on Maui spans a diverse range of terrain, including rain forests and volcanic landscapes. Solitude is easy to find.
Photo By Patrick Hendry/Unsplash
Or avoid Oʻahu altogether
As the state’s main island, with the most direct flights from the U.S. Mainland, Oʻahu is where most visitors to Hawaiʻi tend to go—and stay. But if you really want to ditch the crowds, consider some of the other Hawaiian Islands, just a quick 30-minute flight away. (There are no ferries from Oʻahu to the Neighbor Islands.)
Maui is the second most-visited island, luring travelers with its golden beaches, picturesque 64-mile Road to Hāna, and spectacular sunrises atop the dormant volcano Haleakalā with charming towns such as Kula and Makawao on its slopes. The deadly 2023 wildfires that destroyed Lahaina and killed at least 101 people have kept visitors away from the island, particularly West Maui, which includes the resort areas of Kāʻanapali and Kapalua. Right now hotels are offering great deals on lodging—for example, the Ritz-Calrton Maui, Kapalua is offering 20% off when reserving a room for five nights for stays through May 30, 2025 and the The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kāʻanapali is giving guests who stay through Jan. 11, 2025 up to 35% off, plus resort credits—to get visitors to return and help boost the island’s economy.
Lee Anne Wong, a Maui resident and former ‘Top Chef” contestant whose Lahaina restaurant was destroyed by the fires, says right now is actually a great time to visit the Garden Isle: “Whether it’s the calm waters and sandy beaches of the west side or the cool, lush beauty of Upcountry on Haleakalā, Maui is an easy place to relax and unplug while still getting a taste of authentic Hawaiʻi.” She recommends wandering around the small towns of Makawao, Kula and Pukalani in Upcountry Maui. One of her favorite spots is Restaurant Marlow, run by Maui chef Jeff Scheer and featuring scratch-made neapolitan sourdough pizzas and farm-to-table rustic fare. Then walk off lunch at the Makawao Forest Reserve, where you can hike beneath a forest canopy of fragrant pine and eucalyptus trees. The shaded 5.8-mile (round trip) Kahakapao Loop Trail is the reserve’s most popular.
Far fewer people travel to Hawaiʻi Island, the state’s largest and home to one of the world’s most active volcanoes, Kīlauea, in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. In 2023 5.6 million people visited Oʻahu; just 1.8 million traveled to Hawaiʻi Island. Sprawling over 4,028 square feet, this island—aptly nicknamed the Big Island—is larger than the other seven major Hawaiian Islands combined, with 10 of the world’s 14 climate zones and two of the world’s tallest mountains. Kauaʻi, the oldest and most northern of the main islands, is known for its lush valleys, gorgeous waterfalls and postcard-perfect beaches. While Poʻipū on the island’s southern coast is packed with hotels and resorts—and, yes, visitors—there are lots of smaller towns you can wander around, like Kōloa, Hanapēpē and Waimea, that are far less crowded. You can sail along the steep cliffs of the Nā Pali Coast, hike the dozens of trails in Kōkeʻe State Park and Waimea Canyon, or lounge on picturesque Hanalei Bay, made famous in the 1958 film “South Pacific.”
For true escapes, consider Molokaʻi—which has no stoplights, malls or buildings taller than a palm tree—or Lānaʻi, with only 3,367 residents and luxe resorts like Sensei Lānaʻi, a Four Seasons Resort that specialize in wellness. (You won’t find an Uber on these two islands, either.)
Stay in a boutique hotel
Every island—yes, even Lānaʻi—has big, luxe resorts with pools, restaurants and shops. But if you want to escape the crowds, start with the accommodations. Smaller, boutique hotels have fewer rooms (and people) and a ton of charm. One example would be Haʻikū House in Upcountry Maui; this historic nine-bedroom estate sits on an expansive 20-acre lot with lots of privacy to roam and relax. The adults-only, eight-room Hāmākua Hotel on Hawaiʻi Island recently opened and sits on a 100-foot sea cliff along the rugged coastline; each room has a private lānai (balcony), larger ones have oversize soaking tubs overlooking the ocean. Waimea Plantations Cottages on the southwestern side of Kauaʻi features 61 unique cottages—once homes to plantation workers—on 27 oceanfront acres, which includes a secluded black-sand beach.
Seek out hole-in-the-wall eateries
Food in Hawaiʻi is as diverse as its population. Whatever you’re craving—Thai noodles, super-fresh sushi, Vietnamese street food, smash burgers—you can find in the Islands. And Hawaiʻi has its own unique fare: dishes rooted in the Native Hawaiian culture, from succulent kālua pig (basically pulled pork cooked in an underground oven, or imu) to creamy haupia (a dessert akin to coconut pudding) to poi, the staple starch of Native Hawaiians made from mashing taro root. One of the best places to try real Hawaiian food is Helena’s Hawaiian Food on Oʻahu, a family-run restaurant that earned the James Beard America’s Classics award in 2000. (Pro tip: Skip the line and order takeout.)
Hawaiʻi is also known for its okazuya, old-school Japanese delicatessens that serve local favorites like inari (cone sushi), nori chicken and chow fun noodles. Local designer Allison Izu Song loves taking visitors to her favorite okazuya shops Fukuya Deli and Gulick’s Delicatessen on Oʻahu. “Things like musubi [rice balls], fried chicken and other small bites are something my family and I look forward to eating at the beach or park on the weekends,” she says. “You need to order early. They usually run out [of food] by lunchtime.”
Shop at locally owned businesses
Ditch the cheesy souvenir shops and find locally owned ones that support Hawaiʻi’s talented artisans. House of Mana Up, started by local entrepreneur Meli James, is a one-stop shop in Honolulu of curated, locally crafted products, from a detoxifying face mask with Hawaiʻi ingredients like taro and turmeric to tasty chips made from locally grown ʻulu (breadfruit). On Maui, local artist Jaclynn Sabado-Eitel runs Paradise Now in Wailuku, a cute boutique filled with colorful art, apparel and bath products sourced by local artisans. Warehouse 3540 on Kauaʻi is a vibrant marketplace in an old pineapple cannery factory; inside this repurposed warehouse is over a dozen locally owned businesses selling everything from artisan soaps to handmade clothing.
The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority has launched the Mālama Hawaiʻi Program to help visitors get involved in conservation.
Photos courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) /Mathieu Duchier
Volunteer in the community
One of the best ways to learn about a place—and to gain a greater appreciation for it—is by volunteering. And there are dozens of organizations in Hawaiʻi that welcome travelers to pitch in and help, whether it’s pulling invasive algae from the ocean or restoring a Native Hawaiian fishpond. The experience of giving back—or mālama—creates a deep connection between you and the place you’re visiting, to its history and culture. The Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority recently launched the Mālama Hawaiʻi Program, a site that houses the various volunteer opportunities around the Islands. Some activities include restoring the dryland forest habitat in Keālia Pond National Wildlife Refuge on Maui, known for it native Hawaiian stilt and coot nesting areas, and helping to rebuild the rock wall at the 400-year-old Hawaiian fishpond Loko Iʻa Pāʻauau on Oʻahu. When you find meaningful experiences where you learn more about the people, the cultures and the place, you’ll leave the Islands with a deeper connection—and more appreciation—than when you arrived. And you’ll likely want to come back.
