It’s no secret that Japan is experiencing overtourism, but actually it’s only parts of Japan—because too many tourists are gathering in major cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. A wonderful way to avoid the masses—and spread visitor goodwill and money elsewhere in the country—is to explore some of the Japan’s smaller destinations. These include onsen (hot springs) resort towns that have long been an escape for the locals and historic, lesser-known cities that have preserved a way of life going back hundreds of years. Some are even easy day trips from familiar locales, like Yamanaka Onsen southwest of Kanazawa or Otaru, 22 miles from Sapporo.
Visit the Museum of Folkcraft and shop for jeans in Kurashiki, Japan.
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Kurashiki, Okayama
At the heart of Kurashiki in Okayama Prefecture on Japan’s main island, Honshu, are the white-walled kura storehouses that line the historic canal. This area dates to the Edo Period (1603–1867), and while Japan tends to tear down old buildings in favor of modern properties, the kura have been repurposed as cafés, museums, and boutiques. The Ohara Museum of Art, Japan’s oldest Western art museum, has an impressive collection that includes works by Picasso, Rodin, and Gauguin. Other museums include the Museum of Folkcraft for tableware and textiles and the Archaeological Museum. The Kojima area in Kurashiki is famous for the birthplace of Japanese denim. Don’t leave without perusing the shops for high-quality selvedge jeans.
Where to stay
The Ryokan Kurashiki Residence consists of historic townhouses in the Bikan Historical District.
Otaru is renowned for its fruit, sweets, sake, and whiskey.
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Otaru, Hokkaido
The port city Otaru is 45 minutes from Sapporo by train and was once the terminal for the first rail line from Sapporo. The Otaru Canal is lined with historic buildings from the 1800s when the area was a busy port for both fishing and trade. During that era, smaller boats would move product from the port to brick warehouses along the canal. Hokkaido is famous for its fruit, sweets, and dairy, hence the many shops with soft serve, cheesecake, and baked goods. Sake aficionados will want to visit Tanaka Sake Brewery Kikkogura, open since 1899. Otaru Sushi Street has about two dozen sushiya serving, yes, fresher sushi than you can find in Tokyo. Spirit lovers, note: The neighboring city of Yoichi is home to the celebrated Nikka Whisky Distillery.
Where to stay
Kuramure is a luxurious modern ryokan with hot-springs water in every private bathroom.
Ouchi Juku’s thatched skyline has changed little in centuries.
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Ouchi Juku, Aizu Wakamatsu, Fukushima
A historic post town dating to the Edo Period (1603–1867) Ouchi Juku was where weary travelers would rest at inns. The village of a mere 30 thatched-roof houses has scarcely changed over the centuries. Visitors can see the interior of the thatched-roof buildings by visiting the town’s museum-like Machinami Tenjikan, once a lodging for shoguns (military leaders). One of the local culinary specialties is negi soba, in which a bowl of buckwheat noodles is served with one long Japanese leek (negi). Diners try to pick up the slippery strands of soba using only the leek. Another famed local dish is shingoro, a sticky rice cake, skewered onto a wooden stick, seasoned with miso and soy sauce, and grilled over a fire.
Where to stay
The large onsen hot springs resort of Ookawaso serves kaiseki dinner with a live shamisen (three-stringed instrument) performance each evening.
Many of the ryokan in Yamanaka Onsen have their own hot springs.
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Yamanaka Onsen, Ishikawa
Yamanaka Onsen has a rich history of more than 1,300 years of healing hot springs. Most visitors will want to spend a night in a traditional—and private—ryokan with their own hot springs. But if you’re only passing through during the day, in the heart of the village is Kiku no Yu, the public bathhouse, for both locals and daytime visitors. Some of the area’s ryokan will also allow visitors to soak in their hot springs for higaeri (day use). Shops in the village sell traditional crafts, notably Yamanaka lacquerware. The area is famous for Kutaniyaki pottery, easily recognized by its colorful glazes and designs. Local specialties include Kaga heirloom vegetables and seafood like buri yellowtail and nodoguro (blackthroat sea perch) harvested from nearby Toyama Bay. This mountain area offers an abundance of wild spring vegetables, too, many enjoyed for being slightly bitter.
Where to stay
Beniya Mukayu, which is part of the Relais & Château group, has luxurious facilities, including a spa and private onsen in each room.
Shirakawa-Go, Gifu
This fairy-tale village is a picturesque site with Gassho-style thatched-roof homes. The town has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, along with Gokayama in neighboring Toyama. Surrounded by mountains, the farmhouses in Shirakawa-Go date to about 1800, and their sturdy roofs withstand some of the heaviest snowfall in Japan. Up to 200 villagers work together to replace the roofs every 20 to 30 years. For a day trip, tourists can take a bus from Kanazawa, Ishikawa, or Takayama in Gifu Prefecture.
Where to stay
Guests at the machiya (traditional wooden house) at Taniya Hida have access to the Kusakabe Folk Crafts Museum, a designated Important Cultural Property.
The active Mount Aso volcano is the largest in Japan.
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Kurokawa Onsen, Kumamoto
On the southern island of Kyushu is the appealing village of Kurokawa Onsen, with more than two dozen traditional ryokan. The heart of the city is off-limits to cars; instead, travelers don cotton yukata (gowns) and meander the pedestrian streets for shopping or to visit other hot springs. Each inn has a hot spring of its own and serves both dinner and breakfast—important because there are no convenience stores in this tiny town. Many visitors will purchase a pass that allows them to visit three other baths at other inns in the area. Nearby Mount Aso is an active volcano you can visit, with one of the world’s largest calderas at a diameter of 15 miles.
Where to stay
Many of the luxurious rooms at the modern Takafue Ryokan, set in a bamboo forest, have a private bath.
Wakimachi, on Shikoku Island, is an established hub for indigo dying.
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Wakimachi, Tokushima
Indigo and traditional architecture are the draws of Wakimachi on Shikoku island. In Minami Machi, Udatsu Street is where indigo merchants were thriving during the Edo Period. The Tokushima way is the benchmark for aizome (traditional indigo dying), and the smell of fermenting indigo dye is present throughout the town. Visitors are invited to dye their own T-shirts, scarves, or handkerchieves at Aizome Kobo. The local Udatsu-style architecture features a firewall built on the second floor of homes and businesses, a design element unique to this area.
Where to stay
About an hour away by car is the luxurious Hotel Ridge with only nine rooms. The modern property is on a hill that overlooks the Naruto Strait between Shikoku and neighboring Awaji Island.
