The first time I visited Guerneville in the summer of 2014, I felt like I’d stumbled on a getaway gold mine. Just 75 miles north of San Francisco, this Russian River retreat felt like a world away, maintaining much of its relaxed, small-town charm, yet with plenty of good food, fun activities, and comfortable hotels to fill an entire weekend—and all without the crowds and hype of nearby Napa and more accessible areas in Sonoma county (which Guerneville is a part of).
Little did I know, Guerneville has been a popular summer getaway for decades, especially among Northern California’s LGBTQ community, who were an integral part in reviving the town’s tourism after a damaging flood in the 1960s. Nowadays, the area maintains an LGBTQ-friendly reputation—even earning itself the nickname the “Gay Riveria.” In addition to pride flags and welcoming signage, visitors will find establishments like the Rainbow Cattle Company, a gay bar popular among imbibers of all sexual orientations, and annual events like the Pride Parade in October, lending the area an air of inclusivity.
Though sleepy in the cooler months, each summer, Guerneville becomes a warm, woodsy retreat where visitors of all walks of life come to float down the river, hike among the redwoods, drink cocktails on sunny patios, and cool down with some of the best dang ice cream in Northern California—exactly what keeps me coming back at least once a year. If you’re planning a trip to Guerneville, use this weekend getaway guide to discover the best places to eat, where to stay, and things to do.
Where to stay
Stravrand is a new, boutique hotel that opened in Guerneville.
Courtesy of Stravrand
Stravrand
- Book now: Stravrand
According to AFAR editor in chief Julia Cosgrove, “The newest boutique accommodation option in Guerneville is the Stavrand, a fully renovated 21-room inn set on six forested acres of apple, quince, fig, apricot, pear, and plum orchards, some of which date to the 1920s. Request a first-floor room in the Cazadero House and take in the night sky while soaking in your private cedar hot tub. This is a stylish place to come to unwind and appreciate the towering redwoods and pinot noir vineyards all around you. Don’t skip s’mores by the firepit.”
Boon Hotel + Spa
- Book now: Boon Hotel + Spa
The crew behind Boon Hotel + Spa has something of a mini-empire in Guerneville, operating two restaurants, a tequila bar, and (of course) this boutique hotel. A quiet enclave, this adults-only (but pet-friendly) retreat has a sunny, ’70s lounge vibe, with midcentury decor and retro record players in each of the 14 rooms, breakfast delivered to your room each morning, and a laid-back pool and bar area at the center of it all. In the summer, it also has three glamping tents and a small vintage camper (dubbed the “boonito”) available—perfect for those who want to spend the whole weekend outdoors, while still enjoying the property’s amenities.
Find solitude in your own private cottage nestled in the woods at Dawn Ranch.
Greg Ceo/Dawn Ranch
Dawn Ranch
- Book now: Dawn Ranch
Situated right on the Russian River, there’s a reason the 22-acre Dawn Ranch has a distinctive “summer camp” vibe. The property has been a welcoming escape for Bay Area weekenders for decades, dating back to 1905, when visitors would pitch tents on the meadow. Most recently, it reopened in 2022 as a chic getaway with freshly remodeled cabins, cottages, and two-bedroom bungalows with full kitchens—ideal for groups and families. The onsite restaurant serves up fresh, seasonal meals with a South American flair (don’t skip the prawns with shaved coconut on the dinner menu) for fueling up in between kayaking along the river, biking through town, doing yoga, and splashing in the property’s pool. Live music on the main lawn offers a pleasant interruption to the serenity, while those who want to rest and relax even more can head to the spa, which opened in 2023. Spa highlights include an outdoor soaking tub made of redwood, indoor and outdoor saunas, and massages.
Autocamp Russian River
- Book now: Autocamp Russian River
Tucked away in an old-growth redwood grove outside of Guerneville, Autocamp Russian River is a “glamping”-style accommodation. Guests can choose to stay in one of 23 luxurious Airstreams, complete with plush beds and stylish light fixtures, or a safari-style tent that’s equally as comfortable. Everything centers around a midcentury-modern-style clubhouse, complete with a fully stocked canteen, communal firepits, and an “adventure concierge” who can help you plan your outing for the day.
Vacation rental with river access
If you’re going with family or a group of friends, a vacation rental with river access is the best way to go. And if you’re lucky, you may find a house within walking distance of Guerneville’s Main Street, where most of the area’s bars and restaurants are clustered, but anywhere between Rio Nido and Monte Rio will do. Just be sure to book as far in advance as possible or be flexible with your dates—summertime weekends book up fast.
Where to eat and drink
The mezcal and tequila cocktails at El Barrio are a refreshing way to end the day.
Photo by Jessie Beck
Piknik Town Market
In the morning, join the line at Piknik Town Market (formerly Big Bottom Market and under new ownership as of 2023), a hip café and upscale grocery that serves coffee, breakfast, and lunch. Although, yes, it makes excellent cakes, sandwiches, and salads you can grab for your river-day picnic, it’s the fluffy, buttermilk biscuits that first put the location on the map—so much so that Oprah named them as one of her favorite things in 2016. Despite the change in ownership and name, fans of the Big Bottom Market biscuits can rest easy: Piknik owner, Margaret van der Veen, has confirmed the beloved baked good will remain on the menu.
Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen
Next to a skate park and community garden in the nearby town of Monte Rio, Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen is worth the detour out of town for breakfast, lunch, or a cup of coffee. Mismatched chairs, painted skateboards, and vintage bric-a-brac come together in a decidedly bohemian decor in the café’s semi–open air sitting area, while picnic tables in the garden offer a serene space to sit. The coffee is hot and delicious, but it also has a small, Mediterranean-inspired menu with dishes like the house shakshuka and “beach laffa,” a flatbread sandwich stuffed with eggplant, egg, and tahini for those who brought an appetite.
Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream
It’s hard to miss Nimble & Finn’s as you drive down Main Street: Housed in what was once a bank, this ice cream shop often has a line out the door. Using local, seasonal ingredients, the award-winning creamery churns out mouth-wateringly delicious flavors like Meyer lemon olive oil, rhubarb crisp, and (my personal favorite) lavender honeycomb. After you’ve bought your scoop, wander to the back of the shop for a selfie shoot in an old vault turned photo booth or scope out the wine selection at the petite bottle shop that shares the space.
Boon Eat + Drink
Boon Eat + Drink is one of three fantastic Main Street eateries run by the same folks behind Boon Hotel + Spa (in addition to Brot and El Barrio), providing a welcome break from the burgers and diner fare most prevalent in the area. Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, the restaurant creates fresh dishes, such as burrata with seasonal vegetables and halibut with summer squash. If it’s a nice day, ask for a table in the backyard garden, where Boon grows some of its ingredients, such as the beets in their beet salad.
Stumptown Brewery
A few minutes east of downtown Guerneville, Stumptown Brewery has one of the best beer selections in town and is an ideal spot to while away the afternoon over a couple of IPAs, either at the bar or outdoors on its large, dog- and kid-friendly patio. Although the beer is the main attraction here, it also has a solid menu of pub classics, such as char-grilled burgers and wings.
El Barrio
For mezcal and tequila craft cocktails that are as good as you’ll find in any big city, head to El Barrio, an upscale bar with a modern, Mexican-inspired atmosphere. It doesn’t usually serve full meals, but the queso fundido, a hot, cheesy dip served with warm, housemade chips, is a sure crowd-pleaser if you’re hankering for a snack.
Things to do in Guerneville
When the weather is warm, rent a canoe and paddle your way down the Russian River.
Photo by Jessie Beck
Spend a day on the Russian River
During the summer, the water is Guerneville’s main attraction, so be sure to devote at least one full day to simply floating, canoeing, or swimming in the Russian River. If you want to DIY it, bring your own inner tubes for a day of floating. Simply slather on the sunscreen, string your crew together, and begin drifting downriver (ideally with one car on either end so you can shuttle between your start and end points).
If you prefer someone else to handle the logistics, head to Burke’s Canoes in Forestville to rent a canoe or kayak for the day. It costs $95 per canoe (which fits two people) or $60 for a kayak, and a shuttle ride from the endpoint in downtown Guerneville back to the parking lot at Burke’s is included in the price of each rental. If you have time, make a pit stop for beers at Stumptown Brewery, which has an area for canoe and kayak “parking” on the riverside edge of its large, outdoor beer garden.
If you prefer to stay in one spot, head to Monte Rio Public Beach, one of the biggest beaches along the Russian River, a 10-minute drive from downtown Guerneville. But no matter how you choose to do it, a day on the river is a long and leisurely affair. We suggest getting drinks and sandwiches from Piknik Town Market before you head out—you’ll thank us later.
Go winetasting
Guerneville sits just on the outskirts of the Russian River Valley American viticultural area (AVA), a distinct, wine-growing region within Sonoma County best known for its chardonnay and pinot noir. To sample some of the region’s best, make a reservation for a tasting at Hartford Family Winery, an unpretentious, single-vineyard winery with excellent old vine zinfandels and (of course) chardonnays and pinot noirs. Or, head to Gary Farrell Winery for a tasting while enjoying sweeping views of the Russian River Valley from their patio.
Take a hike among the redwoods in Armstrong Woods
Like many parts of Northern California, Guerneville and its surrounds were once an active logging area. However, the woods within Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve were spared and are today home to a grove of majestic sequoias, also called coast redwoods. Visitors can admire them while strolling along the Pioneer Nature Trail, a paved, accessible path through the reserve’s main features.
Best yet, it’s open year-round and totally free to enter if you park your car outside the reserve or enter by foot or bike, though donations are accepted at the visitor center next to the lot. Otherwise, it costs $10 per vehicle to drive the small loop adjacent to the Pioneer Nature Trail.
How to get to Guerneville
Guerneville is 75 miles north of San Francisco and a 90-minute drive by car on Highway 101, depending on traffic. Buses run regularly from Santa Rosa (a 45-minute journey), but Guerneville is best reached by car, especially if you’re staying outside of the main, downtown area.
