The Madrid area known as Madrid de los Austrias (in English, the Hapsburg neighborhood) is renowned for its rich cultural history, but its mouthwatering culinary traditions are still relatively uncharted. The easily walkable district with winding streets is ideal for wandering. So, we put together this self-guided tour filled with numerous delicious stops and history—all covered by about 20 minutes of walking, which is about how long any itinerary on foot here would take. A unique experience, the compact journey suits visitors of all ages. It delves into bustling markets, visits historically significant sites, and stops to sample Spanish flavors from taverns (tabernas) and restaurants amid dramatic architecture that spans Renaissance to baroque periods.
Begin your walking tour at Plaza Mayor
Once the center of Old Madrid, Plaza Mayor retains much of its classical charm.
Courtesy of Madrid City Tourism
Start at the famous Plaza Mayor, whose 17th-century square transports you to a bygone era. Although the plaza has transformed over the centuries, it’s still home to multiple shops and taverns. Before setting out on your food trail, stop by the Plaza Mayor Tourist Information Center in the former Casa de Panadería building, where you can pick up maps and other information about the area’s vibrant history.
Check out the San Miguel Market
Depart from Plaza Mayor through the northwest corner and walk a few minutes to Mercado de San Miguel, one of Madrid’s most treasured food destinations. Built in 1916, the market’s iron-and-glass structure underwent a renovation in 2009. Many stalls have distinctive offerings from Madrid and other regions of Spain, allowing visitors a fantastic opportunity to sample small plates and drinks in a single location.
Eat at the world’s oldest restaurant, Botín
If you’d prefer a sit-down meal in the world’s oldest operating restaurant, head a few minutes south to Restaurant Botín on Calle de Cuchilleros. Initially established in 1725, the restaurant celebrates 300 years this year, maintaining its 18th-century interior and original firewood oven.
See Plaza de la Villa
As dusk sets in, Plaza de la Villa lights up.
Courtesy of Madrid City Tourism
After your meal, walk along Calle Mayor towards Plaza de la Villa, a medieval square. Well-preserved buildings from the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries showcase the neighborhood as it once was. Check out Torre de los Lujanes, Madrid’s oldest community building; Casa de la Villa (formerly a city hall); and a palace from the Renaissance, Casa de Cisneros.
Get beer and tapas at historic taverns
Try tapas and drinks at Taberna El Anciano Rey de los Vinos.
Courtesy of Madrid City Tourism
As you head west in the direction of the Almudena Cathedral, take note of some of the tabernas along the route. You can appreciate stunning views of the cathedral from the outdoor seating at Taberna El Anciano Rey de los Vinos, a popular tavern founded more than 110 years ago. For beer connoisseurs, Cervecería La Mayor offers a variety of Spanish beers and has been a cornerstone in the area for almost 40 years.
Visit Almudena Cathedral
Almudena Cathedral, Madrid’s preeminent cathedral, on the other side of Calle de Bailén, was completed in 1993. Upon entering, you’ll notice colorful stained glass and complex frescos and artworks that diverge from traditional cathedral styles of European art history. Relax and take some time to stroll the grounds and see the tombs of late royalty and nobility.
Go to the Royal Palace and Royal Collections Gallery
Next door to the cathedral, visit the Royal Collections Gallery, an award-winning building completed across four stages between 2006 and 2015. The art and artifacts collection is one of Madrid’s most significant museum projects and officially opened to visitors in Summer 2023. Its uniquely curated collection includes exquisite paintings, tapestries, sculptures, armor, and period furniture, among other pieces belonging to Spanish monarchs over the last 500 years. Visitors can grab a bite at the Café de la Galería, located in the Royal Collections Gallery with views of the Almudena Cathedral, for a moment’s pause to take it all in.
Continue to feed your curiosity nearby at the Royal Palace, the largest royal palace in Western Europe with more than 3,400 rooms, and the Royal Library. (Official state business and ceremonies are conducted at the Royal Palace, but the royal family lives at their private residence, Zarzuela Palace.)
Tours of the Royal Kitchen (now a museum) lend insight into where grand and expansive state dinners were prepared for centuries. Nearby, you can book a fascinating tour of one of Madrid’s best-kept secrets, the Royal Monastery of the Incarnation, which was founded in 1611 and declared a cultural heritage site in 1994.
The changing of the guard in front of the Royal Palace
Courtesy of Madrid City Tourism
If you time it right, you can catch the changing of the Royal Guard, a ceremony on the first Wednesday of the month. Continue walking and wander through the peaceful Sabatini Gardens adjacent to the palace, built on the site of the former royal stables in the 1930s.
Attend a show or take a tour at the Royal Theatre
Stop by Madrid’s Royal Theatre (Teatro Real), found a few minutes from the royal grounds. In addition to opera performances, visitors can enjoy classical music, ballet, pop concerts, and flamenco dance.
The Royal Theatre’s backstage tour of how the cast and crew set up for an opera performance gives visitors an insider’s look at costumes, dressing rooms, and more. Alternate tours are also available. Whether the theater is your final destination or you want to keep exploring, it’s part of what makes walking through Madrid de los Austrias so compelling—a tour through Spain’s timeless cultural heritage on foot that’s also a greener way to discover the city.
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