Bangkok has long been as vibrant and alive as it gets—and the metropolis of almost 11 million people is always reinventing itself. “I would explain it as a revival,” says thirtysomething native Mook Attakanwong, owner of multidisciplinary gallery, shop, and events space ATT 19. “I feel like this is the real beginning in terms of a lot more expansion in understanding of art, music, and food.”
Colorful Thai culture and festivals are dependably exciting here, and food seems as much a religion as the dominant Buddhism. “There’s no other place in the world that has such good food,” insists Natty Wongphanlert, owner and general manager of the plush boutique 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok. She grew up in the Thai capital, where the country’s regional diversity is celebrated and well represented. “It gives me so much joy in every meal.”
Memorable eats don’t have to come at a high cost. It may only be $1 for one of the top five meals of your life at a night market, or it could be as much as $215 for the extensive tasting menu by chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm, the creative genius at Michelin-starred Potong, a Thai Chinese fine-dining mash-up inside her family’s 1910 Chinese medicine dispensary in Yaowarat.
Bangkok offers a lot—yet traffic can make it hard to fit everything you’d like to in a day. The city is best explored neighborhood by neighborhood, by walking or using the occasional tuk-tuk or taxi. Here, with the wisdom of these three local women, is a guide to four flavor- and art-packed days in Bangkok.
Day One: Get your bearings on a boat
Start strong by devouring your hotel’s breakfast, which likely includes flavorful Western, Asian, and Thai options. Set out for Sathorn Central Pier, where there are countless private longtail boats to hire for a cruise up and down the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok’s aorta. “That is probably the best thing you can do to get a glimpse of the whole town in a short period,” says Attakanwong. “Also, seeing a lot of Thais going to work and to school by the river is such a cool thing.” Watch for gilded Khmer-style spires, such as the one at Wat Arun temple.
Once you hop off, grab a tuk-tuk from a stand (agree on the price before you take a seat, and negotiate a bit) for the short drive to Lao Tang. Arrive on the early side for lunch or risk missing out on the “very unique, very tender” goose that Wongphanlert says has kept the eatery in business for 42 years. It’s braised in Chinese herbs and served with sour chili sauce.
From there head to the melting pot that is Charoen Krung Road, the city’s oldest paved road (completed in 1864) and one of its coolest creative micro-hoods. “To really understand the best thing about Bangkok life is to watch people and see the different cultures that exist within each space,” says Attakanwong, whose family’s Lek Gallery Art opened on the street in 1975. Situated among seemingly ancient—in some cases crumbling—buildings full of character, it’s now one of many businesses that are tethered to the past yet operate in a wholly contemporary manner.
At Mother Roaster, a coffee shop run by septuagenarian Auntie Pam above an abandoned auto parts shop, order a filter coffee to go for your slow stroll south. Stop in at Warehouse 30, a storied block of historical warehouses beside the Portuguese Embassy that now houses galleries, design shops, and studios. Continue to the new-as-of–Summer 2024 flagship of Kitt.ta.khon, a wildly original furniture and decor brand by inspired young Thai designer Teerapoj “Pete” Teeropas, who studies heritage weaving methods and applies them in many exciting ways.
Around the corner in a former school building is Attakanwong’s gallery ATT 19, and inside it is the 15-seat Mad Beef. Book a 6:30 p.m. kaiseki-style dinner of 13 all-beef, nose-to-tail courses. Attakanwong says her sister, chef Cher Attakanwong, “will educate you on what you’re having—they promote sustainability in eating beef and serve secondary cuts.” For less avid carnivores, Small Dinner Club is a not as meaty yet equally intimate option that dropped my jaw during a three-hour trip through Thai flavors used in incomprehensible ways—think Thai green chili shaved ice—by a monk turned chef.
Conclude the night at some of Utharntharm’s favorite bars on Soi Nana, a lively Chinatown alley, where “you can go barhopping for different vibes and crazy experiences,” she says. There’s Tep Bar, serving Thai herbal whiskey called ya dong; the gin-focused Teens of Thailand; and Asia Today, bathed in neon and proffering “creative cocktails made with local, wild ingredients like honey sourced from Thai farmers,” says the chef.
Bangkok Arts and Culture Center is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Photo By tOl270D/Shutterstock
Day Two: Explore the best of Old Town
The Chinese have congee and the Thai have jok (pronounced joke), but the jasmine rice–based porridges are incredibly similar. The place to try Thailand’s is long-standing local fave (and long-awarded Bib Gourmand spot) Jok Prince, where the pork-accented dish is deliciously smoky thanks to being cooked over a charcoal fire. Alternately, opt for another must-try breakfast: pan-fried egg. This street food specialty is hardly a cousin of the United States’ fried egg. It’s presented perfectly at Kope Hya Tai Kee in a skillet with plenty of vibrant and savory toppings. Pair it with coffee the local way, with sweet milk.
Next, head to Rattanakosin, otherwise known as Old Town. After all, it would be a shame to visit Bangkok, home to so many gorgeous Buddhist temples, and not appreciate their exquisite detailing up close. But the most famous, Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon (Temple of the Reclining Buddha—a 150-foot-long statue) tend to get mobbed with tourists, so if you left the river jaunt wanting more, go right when it opens, at 8:30 a.m. Dress modestly.
Better yet, Attakanwong advises skipping the busiest temple in favor of one or two “that are more aesthetically beautiful to you. Sometimes it’s not really about the most popular place but the one you feel a connection with.” For her that’s Wat Ratchabophit Sathitmahasimaram Ratchaworawihan in Old Town, built in 1869 for King Rama V. “It’s really special but often overlooked,” says Utharntharm, adding the temple “is very unique, and you can see the blending of Thai and Western [aesthetics] in it.”
Then, walk some 15 minutes toward the Grand Palace, but don’t go inside. Tucked to the side is the circa 1870 Ratsadakorn-bhibhathaha building and the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, which Wongphanlert says feels “exclusive.” Plan to spend an hour oohing and aahing over the iconic fashions of the beloved namesake queen, who at 92 is finally relaxing a bit after spending decades traveling the world as Thailand’s chicest silk-clad ambassador. “As a Thai, you feel it, the aura and the significance of what she did for the country,” says Wongphanlert. “We were really proud of her, and the clothes she wore were really beautiful.”
Walk 20 minutes north along the river to slurp up the spicy, sweet, sour, savory namesake dish at Nai Soie Beef Noodle. Save space, because you’ll want to duck in next door for a scoop or two of dairy-free Jasmine Green Tea with Lychee gelato at Coconut Culture, which Attakanwong loves for its “Thai-driven flavors.”
Continue your silk education at the lush, peaceful Jim Thompson House Museum. Thompson was the American architect credited with kicking off the Thai silk business in the 1960s with his shops and enduring brand, and his perfectly preserved traditional home is well worth a tour. “The collection of antiques and textiles tells such an interesting story about Thailand’s past,” says Utharntharm.
Scoot a couple blocks over to the modern Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (where admission is always free) for a brief look at the latest contemporary art expressions in its galleries. Pop into the book and craft shops, then mosey past the National Stadium (where a BTS SkyTrain station offers easy and air-conditioned connectivity) to Banthat Thong. Wongphanlert recommends this mile-plus-long road of shops hawking all varieties of street food. You’ll find everything from juicy pork satay with peanut sauce for 9 THB (US$0.25) per skewer to smoked salmon–stuffed fried buns and fantastic kuay teaw khae, or dry spicy egg noodles. Or take a short taxi to Charmgang, a Bib Gourmand curry restaurant with a “cool vibe” where Wongphanlert suggests authentic dishes such as sugar cane–smoked pork jowl with southern sour mango. “In Thai salads, we use fish sauce and mix it with lemon and also sugar,” she says. “In one bite you can taste every flavor.”
The Chatuchak Weekend Market is the largest in Thailand.
Photo By artapartment/Shutterstock
Day Three: Take your taste buds on another trip—or three
The first destination today is charmingly chaotic Chatuchak Weekend Market, northeast of Old Town and accessible by a short, cheap taxi ride or on the SkyTrain: Disembark at Mo Chit station, take exit number one, and follow your nose—or the crowds of people all heading to the same place. Open at 9 a.m., the market has plenty for you to graze on for hours, when you’re not hunting for the home decor and handicrafts that can’t be found elsewhere, Utharntharm promises. Track down Ratthanakosin Boat Noodle Chatuchak for a must-try dish the chef calls “an explosion of flavor in a bowl.” She adds, “Boat noodles are savory and a bit spicy and have this rich depth from the broth that’s often made with spices like star anise and cinnamon.” Her additional need-to-eats are spicy papaya salad and coconut ice cream.
After lunch, historical Song Wat Road, some 25 minutes by taxi, awaits. Within Chinatown—recently reinvigorated for young people as the backdrop of Lisa Manobal from Blackpink’s latest music video—it’s one of the buzziest and hippest streets in Bangkok these days. Utharntharm says, “The streets are alive with a mix of locals and tourists, street food vendors, and tuk-tuks.”
Start at the refurbished shophouse of Song Wat Coffee & Roasters, a 2023 opening from local dessert entrepreneur Gulapat “May” Kanokwatanawan, and order a pick-me-up in the form of Chiang Mai–grown java or a Dark Orange (Americano with orange juice, which is becoming common in Bangkok). Also snag some kanom kai, aka egg cakes, which Wongphanlert describes as “like a Madeleine, but Thai style.”
Walk a couple minutes to Play Art House, “a cool spot where you can often find different local artists showcasing their work,” says Utharntharm of the ever-changing gallery highlighting multimedia work. There’s plenty more to be seen on the street, which doubles as a free open-air gallery, with painted murals and photography, too.
Just a few more minutes away is E-ga Lab, where Utharntharm recommends asking for the Khao Pad Nhamn for supper, a fried rice dish made with fermented pork, “giving it a slightly tangy and savory taste that’s incredibly satisfying.” Otherwise, try dinner at Lim Lao Ngow Fishball Noodle, a Song Wat hawker stall whose flourless bouncing fish balls from an ancestral recipe have Bib Gourmand distinction.
Finish off the night at speakeasy-like Opium Bar, says Wongphanlert, a staple of the district. The super-glam former opium den turned rooftop bar above Potong serves drinks that pay homage to history, including the old-school Yaowarat (Chinatown) tribute Good Ol’ Days, with Thai tea and Lheng Ying tea, washed Gin Mare, a bitters trio, tonic, and Por Kun Ear Boh, the Chinese medicine Potong originally crafted when it was a pharmacy.
Day Four: Experience wellness Thai style
Wake with the sun and head to Benchakitti Park, a green lung that’s compared to New York City’s Central Park and whose Skywalk is like Manhattan’s High Line, only it weaves through forest and above a lake rather than through buildings. “I go nearly every day. It’s my favorite place,” says Wongphanlert, an avid jogger.
Afterward, take a taxi to responsible grocery store Homeland Cafe & Grocer in trendy Thonglor, where Attakanwong recommends sitting for a decadent breakfast of hotcakes with a rich compote of nam wah bananas and cashew nut butter. “They serve food made from local ingredients sourced from local communities,” she says, “and it’s a really great place, especially for brunch.”
After sating their hunger, jewelry lovers should beeline to Pattaraphan next door or hop another motorbike to EmSphere, the newest of three malls at EmDistrict, which Natty describes as “shopping heaven. The malls have been thoughtfully designed with unique elements that integrate art and lifestyle and are photogenic, with green spaces and a vibe that changes during each time of the day.” Look for up-and-coming Thai brands Pipatchara, with designs in sustainable materials like upcycled orphan plastic; Ravipa, for amulet bracelets; and Gentlewoman, for status tote bags.
Head back toward Benchakitti, where you’ve planned ahead by booking the four-person-max afternoon tea at Minimal Meal, “a tea pairing with dessert that is phenomenal,” says Attakanwong. The seasonal Japanese-style sweets and sips are all prepared carefully and served by a single person, Pete Worasan, who shares his incredibly deep knowledge throughout the experience.
Next, it’s time for another very Thai exploit. “You are not in Bangkok if you do not go for a massage,” says Utharntharm, who recommends Let’s Relax and Health Land. At the latter, I was stretched in such ways during a traditional Thai massage that I thought several body parts might pop off, but I kind of loved it. As the chef—an advocate for massage after all-day kitchen work—puts it, “It might feel a bit strong at first, but afterward you’ll feel amazing, like all your tension is gone.”
Hop on a Grab motorbike for an appointment at Health Land Ekamai Road before dinner at Nawa Thai Cuisine, Michelin-starred fine dining with a set menu that changes every four months with the seasons. “He cooks his food to be presented artistically, but he lets his parents taste it to make sure it’s the authentic taste,” says Wongphanlert of chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget and his traditional sharing-style suppers.
If you need one last drink—and tuk-tuk ride—swing by Old Town’s Ku Bar, a regular haunt of Attakanwong, who always sips an effervescent Dirty Fizz but says, “Every single cocktail by them is amazing. They ferment most things themselves.” More date night than party night, it’s a good reminder that Bangkok, the City of Angels (yes, like Los Angeles), has two distinctive sides. “It’s a great juxtaposition as you enter via a street that has a very busy bar at the front and a club just below,” says Attakanwong. “Once you arrive, it is all peace and quiet. It really transports you.”
The Standard in Bangkok is home to numerous food and drink spots, including The Parlor, a cocktail and live music venue, and Double Standard, the hotel’s take on a British pub.
Courtesy of The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakho
Where to stay
You’re safe with any of the stays from our best hotels in Bangkok list. Capella Bangkok, with views of the Chao Phraya River from bed and from some suites’ balcony jacuzzis, is an elegant choice right on Charoenkrung Road—making it great for the first half of the trip—with experience offerings that facilitate genuine local interactions. Don’t miss a cocktail at its flamboyant bar Stella, where the newest concoctions and even their vessels are evocative tributes to particular districts and cultural traditions.
Aesthetically opposite is The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon, with a vivid Memphis Group palette and playful silhouettes set in an eye-catching tower beside Mahanakhon SkyWalk with its 1,017-foot-high glass tray. This place is all about fun, from the tea room dubbed Tease to the resort-like pool to the sparkly red steam room. It’s well located for Days Three and Four.
