There are two kinds of wine: French, and all the others, joked Les Kellen, a Bordeaux wine maker and entrepreneur in the village of Blaye, as we prepared to sample some of his product.
He was half kidding, though I admit I have to agree with his assertion. But you don’t have to like French wine—or any wine—to fall in love with France. There’s plenty of enjoyment to be had from its landscape alone. And one of the most relaxing (and increasingly popular) ways to explore this country’s rolling hills, quaint villages, bustling cities, and storied châteaux and vineyards is from its rivers.
We met Kellen and his wife, the German artist Clarissa, on a preview sailing last month of Avalon Artistry II, Avalon Waterways’ first ship to sail the Bordeaux region on the Gironde and Garonne Rivers. Bordeaux is one of four distinct river-cruising regions in France. River cruise lines also sail from Paris to the beaches of Normandy on the Seine; along the ornate castles and vineyards of the scenic Loire Valley; and through Burgundy and Provence on the Rhône and Saône Rivers.
Here’s what each of France’s river cruise regions has to offer.
Avalon Waterways’ Artistry II recently launched in France’s Bordeaux region.
Courtesy of Avalon Waterways
Bordeaux
On our four-day cruise from the unofficial capital of France’s famed wine region, we never really ventured any farther from Bordeaux than one could easily do on a day trip by car or train. But why deal with all those hassles when you can explore storied wineries, historic citadels, picturesque villages, and even a popular beach resort from the comfort of a luxury ship complete with farm-to-table dining, including daily homemade French soup, mussels, fresh fish and, of course, lots of great French wine?
During the sailing, there truly was something for everyone. One morning we took a four-mile stroll through the vineyards and chateau of the Margaux region, one of the most prestigious wine regions in Bordeaux and the largest in Médoc with 21 Grand Cru class properties. Our expert guide also worked in the vineyards, and her firsthand knowledge and descriptions of the hard work and precision it takes to maintain the vines kept us intrigued as we made our way to the final stop: a wine tasting at Chateau Angludet, a family-owned wine estate.
Take a deep dive into the rich wine-making traditions of the Bordeaux region of France.
laraslk/Shutterstock
From there, we set sail to the village of Blaye, home of a 17th-century citadel built to protect the mouth of the Gironde. While some of us visited with Kellen at his wine bar, La Petit Cave, and painted tiles at his wife’s art studio, others opted for a panoramic drive from Blaye to Bourg before returning to Blaye to explore the fortress. The next day, we strolled the bustling Sunday-morning open-air street markets of Libourne.
On our final day in Bordeaux, we experienced an entirely new vibe with a day trip to an oyster farm at Port Arcachon, on the Atlantic’s Bay of Biscay, followed by a local lunch of baked chicken in the popular beach resort town. Others opted for a bike tour of Bordeaux or a visit to its famous interactive wine museum.
The pace was perfect. When we returned to our ship, docked in the heart of Bordeaux, we sat on the sundeck of our ship and sipped rosé as we watched families, joggers, and dog walkers enjoy the waterfront. That night, the captain took us on a surprise nighttime sail to enjoy views of the city lights.
With its new ship, Avalon joins Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, Viking, Scenic, and AmaWaterways in Bordeaux. Most itineraries are similar in scale and scope to the Avalon sailing I was on, but they might linger longer in some of the smaller ports and offer more time—including overnights—in Bordeaux before and/or after the sailing.
Not only does the Seine River travel straight through the heart of Paris—it ends at the sea, providing direct access to the beaches of Normandy.
Photo by Daniela Holzer/Unsplash
Seine
Always popular are sailings along the Seine River, between iconic Paris and Normandy, with visits to the historic Normandy beaches that were the site of the 1944 World War II D-Day landings. These cruises generally sail round-trip from Paris, where you have ample time to explore the City of Lights and all of its attractions, including Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower. Of course, passengers can always add more time in Paris before or after their cruise. Along the way, guests sail through the Beaujolais wine region, enjoy views of scenic farmlands, visit Claude Monet’s house and gardens in Giverny, can see the remains of Richard the Lionheart’s castle overlooking the Seine Valley in Les Andelys, and Napoleon’s final home, Château de Malmaison. Several lines, including Viking, AmaWaterways, and Tauck, have also begun or will soon launch holiday cruises along the Seine, which offer Christmas-market lovers uniquely French alternatives to the bigger and better-known markets along the Rhine in Germany, Austria, and Hungary.
During a sailing along the Rhône River, immerse yourself in the charms of Provincial towns like Arles.
Photo by Hugo Kruip/Unsplash
Rhône and Saône
True foodies will love exploring Provence, one of my all-time favorite European river cruise destinations. While sailing along the Rhône River, you can wander the food markets and brioche bakeries of Lyon, France’s second-largest city and gastronomy capital. Explore the Palais des Papes in Avignon, one of the largest medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. Follow dogs as they hunt for truffles near Grignan, have lunch with French cowboys in the Camargue region, and shop for some of France’s finest wines in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. In Viviers, you can explore the medieval Cathedral of St. Vincent in Arles and see the place and the light that inspired the paintings of Vincent van Gogh. Some itineraries start in Paris and connect to Lyon via the high-speed train, an option offered by Riviera Travel. Others, including those from cruise lines Emerald and Scenic, also sail north of Lyon into the Burgundy region on the Saône River.
Try something a bit more intimate and unique by sailing on a European Waterways hotel barge through the Loire Valley.
Courtesy of European Waterways
Loire Valley
Castle lovers won’t want to miss the fairy-tale–like Upper Loire Valley, where the scenic Loire River winds directly through this well-known château country. Once the playground for royalty, the Loire Valley is often described as the Valley of the Kings and is famous for its hundreds of beautiful castles and châteaux. Although the Loire is France’s longest river, traditional river boats can’t ply its shallow waters. The best way to explore this area by water is aboard an intimate barge. French Country Waterways and European Waterways offer luxury cruises here, some with a golfing or biking focus. Usually accommodating 6 to 12 passengers, the barges can navigate canals dating back to the early 1600s. Only one river cruise line, the French company CroisiEurope, operates a ship here, the 96-passenger Loire Princesse, which is powered by paddlewheels that enable it to sail in the shallow waters. Other lines, including AmaWaterways and Viking, also offer land extensions for their other France cruises in the Loire Valley.