Travelers to Charleston tend to flock to the French Quarter to see famous attractions such as the City Market and Waterfront Park. But a few blocks to the north, however, there’s another neighborhood that has staked its claim to being the city’s hottest spot.
About a three-minute walk from Marion Square, Cannonborough–Elliotborough has gone through a major revitalization in recent years. Once neglected—despite its proximity to the standard tourist sites and historic architecturally diverse buildings—the area has hit its stride over the past decade, with acclaimed bistros, seafood restaurants, and wine bars and fashionable apparel and gift shops gradually taking over old corner groceries and formerly boarded-up storefronts.
The tables at Vern’s are placed close together in part to make the restaurant feel like a neighborhood gathering place.
Photo by Lizzy Rollins
Despite this influx of trendy businesses, Cannonborough–Elliotborough has managed to retain its relaxed, residential feel—making it appealing for travelers who want to escape the hubbub of the French Quarter and experience how Charlestonians live. “Both locals and visitors feel like they’ve discovered something extra-special when they walk down the block and seem to stumble onto our quiet little corner,” says Bethany Heinze, one of the owners of Vern’s, a hit restaurant in an old clapboard building on Bogard Street.
Taken together, the friendly vibe, historic setting, and award-worthy food and drink make this up-and-comer arguably the most “Charleston” of all Charleston neighborhoods and the perfect home base for a visitor. Here’s how to slow your stroll and enjoy your stay.
Experience the area’s history through its architecture
While it may not quite match the postcard scenery of Rainbow Row, Cannonborough–Elliotborough has plenty of historical heft. First settled in 1785, it developed into a diverse working-class neighborhood that was home to Irish and German immigrants, as well as Jewish and Black communities.
This long history goes a long way in explaining why this neighborhood is one of the most architecturally diverse parts of the city. For example, Cannonborough–Elliotborough has a high concentration of freedman’s cottages—small, single-story homes built after the Civil War for formerly enslaved people.
“In the 19th century, the neighborhood was heavily focused on the mill industry, and many of the houses were rentals,” says Brittany Lavelle Tulla, an architectural historian with BVL Historic Preservation Research. “There were also elevated upper-class single homes, as well as single-room ‘sweet shops’ and corner stores on community corridors like Cannon Street and Morris Street.” Visitors in search of a deep dive into the architectural history of the neighborhood can check with the Preservation Society of Charleston or schedule a private tour with Walk & Talk Charleston.
Hermosa Jewelry founder Haley Holzworth designs the store’s signature pieces.
Courtesy of Hermosa Jewelry
Get some retail therapy
Many of the area’s unique shops are near the intersection of King and Cannon streets. Start at the Tiny Tassel, a boutique owned by Black and Asian women that brings a burst of joy in the form of colorful handmade jewelry, clothing, and accessories inspired by the city’s playful spirit. The signature item, unsurprisingly, is tassel earrings—good luck trying to choose just one of the many varieties in stock.
Looking for something shinier? A block away, Hermosa Jewelry features locally designed pearl pendant necklaces, threader earrings, and more. For something that truly evokes Charleston, pick up an item from the shop’s Oyster Collection, a series of pieces shaped like oyster shells. And if you’re really smitten with the Holy City, consider commemorating your visit with some “permanent” jewelry—chains and charms that are custom fit as bracelets, necklaces, and anklets, and then welded together to keep them on.
For celebrity-endorsed gear, stroll down Spring Street to Taxidermy, which specializes in luxury handbags that stars such as Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner, and Snoop Dogg have favored. Stand-out styles like the leather JW Micro and Python Liz Traveler Tote come in a rainbow of colors.
Shop owner Casey Berry drew inspiration from South Carolina’s trees and Spanish moss for the name of the Paper Canopy.
Photo by Ruta Smith
A few doors down, shoppers who are more “Bob Ross” than “Rick Ross” will find the Paper Canopy, a trove of art supplies, greeting cards, and stationery. This is an appealing place to seek out a quirky gift for a kid or a picky friend—choose from watercolor kits and fountain pens to stick-of-butter bookmarks and artisan candles—and it also hosts regular arts and crafts workshops. “I’ll often suggest where to have lunch in the neighborhood, or the next stores customers should visit, like Rooted in Charleston, Charleston Candle Co., Philosophers & Fools, the Tiny Tassel, and Hermosa,” says owner Casey Berry. “Businesses here work collaboratively and believe in community over competition.”
Speaking of Philosophers & Fools, it’s a cozy independent bookstore for those who like to do their bedtime reading with a nightcap close at hand. The bar offers wine and beer, as well as nonalcoholic beverages and snacks, while the shelves stock fiction and nonfiction. (Check out the store’s Instagram for book and drink pairing suggestions. It’s open until 10 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.)
Eat and drink
Start your culinary exploration of Cannonborough–Elliotborough at Vern’s, an intimate gem with a rustic, inviting atmosphere. Husband-and-wife team Daniel “Dano” and Bethany Heinze serve American cuisine with a modern twist, using local seasonal ingredients. Try the raw yellowfin tuna with lemon and Calabrian chili, marinated field peas with walnut and shishito peppers, or rabbit campanelli.
“After moving across the country for a five-year stint on the West Coast, we both had a deep longing to return to Charleston that became hard to ignore,” Bethany Heinze says. “Once we made the decision to return, there was no doubt our ideal neighborhood was Cannonborough–Elliotborough.”
Founded by Charleston native and 2024 James Beard finalist James London, Chubby Fish is a dock-to-table dining experience that’s locally rooted and globally recognized. London partners with local fishers and farmers to highlight the best ingredients from the Lowcountry, with an emphasis on seafood (oysters, caviar sliders, smoked-fish curry). Note: The 40-seat restaurant is walk in only, and guests begin queuing about an hour before the doors open at 5 p.m.
For an old-school Parisian feel, stop in at Félix, with its marble-topped tables, woven bistro chairs, classic French fare (steak frites, mussels steamed in white wine), extensive wine list, and craft cocktails. For a Francophilic alternative, Félix’s newly opened lounge next door, La Cave, specializes in small plates, wine, aperitifs, and French-inspired cocktails. (Try the Cézanne’s Provence, made with calvados, pomegranate molasses, lemon, and orange and lavender bitters.) “There are a ton of great restaurants in the neighborhood, and a lot of global cuisines, like Spanish with Malagón, Vietnamese with Pink Bellies, and French with my own restaurants,” says owner Félix Landrum. “But it’s also still growing and developing, which is great to see.”
In the morning, drop by Holey City Bagels for hand-rolled, water-boiled, New York–style bagels. Whether you prefer classic flavors (sesame) or new creations (rosemary salt), you can’t go wrong at this neighborhood favorite. Or try Island Provisions, which serves fresh-fruit smoothies like the Blue Dream, with blue spirulina and açaí. You can also stop by later in the day for a cocktail or a glass of wine.
Speaking of wine, the Tippling House, in a beautifully restored 19th-century Charleston single house, offers an extensive bottle list and a good by-the-glass selection. It feels like you’re hanging out in the living room of owners Matthew Conway and Carissa Hernandez—which is a fine place to be drinking, since Conway is a decorated sommelier who has worked in New York and France and is an expert on the northern Rhône Valley. You won’t go wrong ordering off the “Matthew’s Stash” section of the menu.
The interior at 86 Cannon Historic Inn combines 19th-cenury architecture with modern furnishings.
Courtesy of Explore Charleston
Book a boutique hotel
After all that wining, dining, and shopping, you’ll be ready for bed. Fortunately, you can stay in the heart of the neighborhood at 86 Cannon Historic Inn, a 10-room boutique property tucked into a collection of buildings dating back to the 1860s. Guests will feel almost like locals, stepping out of stately rooms onto porches and balconies to watch the comings and goings of daily neighborhood life. The hotel takes a stay beyond the everyday with a champagne greeting, daily house-made breakfast, a complimentary wine and cheese happy hour every evening, and a zero-edge saltwater pool.
