Midsummer in Swedish Lapland

You’ll arrive in the morning in Kiruna, the largest city of Swedish Lapland, flying via Stockholm. The northernmost city in the country, sitting 90 miles above the Arctic Circle, this was long Sweden’s frontier, a remote outpost until the arrival of the railroad in the 19th century.

You’ll feel like even more of a pioneer as you take to the open road, motoring even farther north to 19,000-acre Abisko National Park. The snow that blankets this peak-filled wilderness in winter gives way in summer to grassy green pastures, fast-running rivers, and a dazzling collection of wildflowers—with snow still melting from the tops of craggy mountains. The wildlife run free here, adding an exciting element to the awe-inspiring panorama; it’s common to see moose and reindeer traipsing across the tundra, while colorful birds fly between shimmering lakes and birch trees, making their summer home here, just like you.

At Mount Nuolja, you can experience the unique thrill of climbing into a chair lift and traveling up, up, up toward the sky, as ever more of the magnificent horizon floods your perspective. In just 20 minutes, you’ll be witnessing a stunning view from almost 3,000 feet above sea level at the Aurora Sky Station; you may even experience the often otherworldly glow of the soft sunlight. Hike around the peak and marvel at the emerald sea of trees peppered with brilliant blue lakes and backdropped by mountain silhouettes in the distance. Enjoy an alfresco meal before continuing on to your final stop for the day, the town of Jukkasjärvi.

Jukkasjärvi was settled in the 17th century, and you can still feel the call of a distant era as you arrive. Besides channeling history, though, you can also take part in a decidedly modern tradition. Every winter here, the ICEHOTEL is reborn, with international artists invited to create an ephemeral architectural wonder that will disappear when Mother Nature turns up the heat of the seasons. Even when that happens, however, you can still experience the magic of the ICEHOTEL, thanks to the at the year-round, solar-powered ICEHOTEL 365, an installation of ice art that includes overnight accommodations, including 12 artist-designed suites with private saunas and plunge bathtubs carved from ice and snow.

You’ll also find an amazing alternative overnight option just outside of Jukkasjärvi: The Reindeer Lodge at Nutti Sámi Siida includes five basic cabins set near grazing reindeer in what will feel like your own slice of Sweden. The lodge is owned by the Sámi, Sweden’s indigenous people who have lived here for some 3,500 years; staying here offers the fascinating opportunity to live like the Sámi people, absorbing their deep respect for nature that has become part of their DNA.

Drive south this morning to Gällivare, a roughly 90-minute trip on a road where the sweet smell of pines wafts through the air. This Arctic town sits among the spectacular scenery of the Laponian Area, and you’ll quickly see why it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Magnificent old-growth forests, pale-blue glaciers, vast wetlands, and omnipresent lakes blanket the landscape of this protected area that covers an astounding 2.3 million acres. Then look closer and you’ll discover that the other reason for its UNESCO listing is an underlying mystique that has grown from the proud traditions and unique heritage of the Sámi people. In fact, this is the largest area in the world still characterized by the annual movement of livestock—in this case, the herds of reindeer belonging to them.

Just south of Gällivare is the Sapmi Nature Camp, where you’ll spend the day. The Sámi-owned operation is another fascinating chance to learn about Sámi culture, history, legends, herding practices, and cooking. Out among the dense forests and endless blue skies, you’ll explore the region’s rich and colorful flora and fauna, which at the height of summer includes the sweet songs of the many birds that migrate to the beautiful area that is Sweden’s north.

Tonight, prepare for a one-of-a-kind experience that harks back to ancient times, when people here lived without the distractions of the modern era: You’ll spend the night in a lavvu, a traditional tent, on the shores of a small lake. Unlike the lavvu that generations of migratory Sámi herdsmen have used, however, these come ready-made for curling up and channeling those ancient rhythms, as they’re heated and furnished with comfortable beds. After your day of exploring with your Sámi hosts—and perhaps a visit to the camp’s sauna—you’ll relax as the sounds of nature lull you off to sleep.

Today you’ll truly get some insight into Swedish culture, by experiencing the magic of a Swedish Midsummer celebration firsthand. Drive from Gällivare to Liehittäjä, a town located on a small lake near the Finnish border that feels like the top of the world. The town’s name comes from an ancient Finnish word for “seductive,” and that’s the perfect description of Huuva Hideaway, where you’ll celebrate this important holiday. Huuva offers cozy accommodations squirreled away among a breathtaking natural setting, where trees climb high into the sky with branches spread out enough to offer you views out across a lake you’ll always remember. Choose to stay in a refurbished two-story log cabin (called Ajtta, or the Hideaway House) or Floataway, a houseboat where you’ll be greeted with panoramic views of the lake. Both options come stylishly decorated with a combination of contemporary and traditional Swedish elements, giving it an authentic sense of place.

Lovers of art and design can also discover a local sense of place: A fun alternative stay is at the six-room Arthotel Tornedalen, which features renovated country houses decked out with carefully curated Scandinavian design, crafts, and contemporary art, and set out on the winding Torne River.

At Huuva Hideaway, you’ll meet owners Pia and Henry Huuva, who will make you feel like part of their extended family. You’ll be invited to join in the Hideaway’s Midsummer celebrations, beginning with the essential tradition of picking colorful wildflowers to braid into garlands and wreaths. If you’re single, you may want to test a particular Swedish tradition: It’s said that if you pick seven particular flowers and sleep with them under your pillow on Midsummer, you’ll dream of your future spouse.

Before then, however, you’ll have a day of raising the maypole, joining the Dance of the Little Frogs around it, and participating in some of the games that are traditionally played at Midsummer celebrations, like sack races and kubb. The latter game is sort of like a Swedish version of lawn bowling, in which each player tries to knock over the wooden blocks, or kubbs, of their opponent.

The Huuva Hideaway celebration includes, of course, opportunities to sample favorite Swedish dishes and drinks. If your visit doesn’t fall on the Midsummer holiday itself, you can enjoy the delights of the Edible Country experience offered at a reindeer corral just 15 minutes from the Hideaway. This four-hour culinary adventure begins by walking through dense woods in search of ingredients for your meal—perhaps spruce needles (trust us) or wild berries that explode with flavor, like delicious cloudberries. You’ll then learn how the cuisine of Sweden’s far north has been shaped by Sámi influences. The menu for the experience depends on what’s available and at its freshest on any particular day, but you might sit down to a meal pike caught in a nearby lake, roe from the small vendace fish, or moose or reindeer meat.

The perfect end of your day, whether you’ve been celebrating Midsummer or participating in the Edible Country experience, is to participate in a Swedish ritual that’s always refreshing and unforgettable—a late-night swim under the midnight sun, as you gaze up at the stars and dream of the Swedish adventures still to come.

After breakfast at Huuva Hideaway, you may find it hard to leave your retreat in the woods of Lapland. Fortunately, you have a fascinating (and indulgent) next stop.

The Arctic Bath in Harads, which opened at the beginning of this year, has been compared to a bird’s nest floating on the Lule River. The exquisite building, designed by architects Bertil Harström and Johan Kauppi, is one-of-a-kind—a whimsical, circular structure that inspires as it beckons. And in true Swedish style, it’s not just forward-thinking in its design, but also made from sustainable materials; much of the wood, stone, and leather used in the building and its furnishings was sourced in Lapland or nearby. On your visit to the spa, you’ll enjoy a sauna, followed by a dip in the long, snaking river to cool off. Then choose from a long list of treatments, from massages to facials, and settle in to experience true wellness.

Afterward, head to the Arctic Bath’s restaurant, helmed by chef Kristoffer Åström, which brings Sámi touches to spa cuisine. Dishes feature ingredients from nearby dairies and farms, and the fish and game served here are caught in the wild. It’s yet another way to channel the ancient rhythms of Sámi culture, in an inspiring, ecologically rich setting.

While the Arctic Bath does offer several different styles of suites for overnight accommodation, you’ll continue on after your spa day to singularly unique option—the Treehotel, also in Harads. The seven treehouses here overlook the Lule River and offer more eye-popping designs to fill your Instagram feed with, including a UFO-inspired treehouse, a mirrored cube, and a bird’s nest. Far from being the treehouses of childhood memories, of course, these luxurious havens include en-suite toilets, electricity, heating and air conditioning, and WiFi. In short, they have all the amenities you’d expect of a hotel room, with the greenery of unexpected treetop views that come from being located in treehouses floating above the forest floor.

After waking up in your treehouse and savoring a delicious breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, continue on your way to Gammelstad. In contrast to the creative contemporary design of the treehouses, you’ll step back in time when you visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Church Town of Gammelstad is the world’s best surviving example of a church village, a type of town unique to this part of Scandinavia. History comes alive as you wander among the 424 wooden houses—which sport a stunningly uniform look of red walls and white shutters. They were used only on Sundays, when residents of nearby towns would come to attend church, then spend the night rather than attempt the return journey on the same day. You can practically feel the emotions of the people who relied on these homes to be a part of this important weekly ritual and commune with friends and neighbors.

Today, Gammelstad has been meticulously preserved and restored, and docents in period costumes welcome visitors to many of the buildings. If your visit coincides with Midsummer, this tiny town serves up a fantastic experience that brings to life all of the Swedish traditions: dances, games, floral garlands, and the decoration and raising of the maypole.

Before you head to the airport and begin your journey home, you may want to pick up some souvenirs of Lapland in Gammelstad. Look for wooden Sámi crafts and jewelry at the store Shop in Lapland (which for now is open only by private appointment). Kallaxgårdsbutik is a home décor shop curated by owners who have that characteristically Swedish ability to spot stylish design in even the most utilitarian objects. While you may not need a gallon can of paint, their soaps, candles, handbags, kitchen accessories, and other items range from cool to kitschy. The shop is also a great place for a fika—a sweet snack served with a cup of coffee—before you depart from Swedish Lapland. You’ll depart with some new purchases to keep the memory of your holiday alive until you can return for more exploration and celebrations.