There’s a reason traditional Irish music and poems by Yeats are celebrated the world over. Experience the rich cultural life of Ireland and the landscapes that inspire it for yourself with this itinerary and more deeply understand the island described in songs, craft, and literature. You’ll connect with people upholding their local heritage and traditions by working the land and sea as they produce food and make objects by hand, with plenty of live music along the way.
Over seven days, travel around the west and northwest of Ireland. Scenery ranges from mountains and loughs in County Galway to green forests and fields in County Mayo and County Sligo’s Atlantic beaches and limestone cliffs. Collect and shuck oysters in Clew Bay, and taste local produce at Ashford Castle. See the craft of making wool, including sheepdogs herding flocks, spinning, and weaving. Listen and get lost in the melodies (or sing along) as musicians perform in centuries-old pubs. It’s a journey to find sustenance for the soul as well as enjoy edible bounty.
Itinerary
PLAN YOUR TRIPDay 1:Live Music in Clifden
Drive to Clifden and check into Abbeyglen Castle Hotel to start the evening by their fire, which burns turf, the traditional local fuel. Walk 10 minutes to Ravi’s Bar for a pint of beer (try a Red Ale) and dinner with live music. If you want to hear more, follow that with Griffin’s Bar and Lowry’s Bar to catch music sessions with everything from fiddle and tin whistle to percussive spoon playing.
If you’d like to spend a day near Shannon instead in County Clare, stretch your legs with a walk around Mooghaun Hill Fort, a preserved Bronze Age site, have lunch and a pint at Knox’s Pub in Ennis, and stay at Dromoland Castle.
Day 2:A Scenic Drive to Westport (and More Music)
Dine at An Port Mór, which serves local ingredients in modern style. A more rustic option is The Pantry & Corkscrew, open over summer and fall. At The Porter House, listen—and perhaps join in dancing—to live music. Pop into Matt Molloy’s Pub where the flautist owner plays sets when not on tour. You might also luck out with live Irish dancing from Riverdance alums, as an AFAR writer experienced when visiting.
Day 3:Museums and More on the Way to Ballina
At Foxford, stop for a snack at the mill’s café where you can also browse historic memorabilia, and buy blankets and bed linen from Foxford Woollen Mill. The Irish brand was established to help sustain rural livelihoods.
After lunch, drive north to Ballina. With the advent of electric refrigeration the ice store on the banks of the River Moy in Ballina fell out of function and has since been restored and augmented as the Ice House Hotel. Stay in a riverside suite to luxuriate in the view across the River to Beleek Wood from your private balcony.
Day 4:See Ruins in County Sligo
On your way towards County Sligo, try the Edwardian bathhouse still in operation in Enniscrone for the must-try experience of a seaweed bath when in Sligo. You’ll dip into tradition as hot water releases a high concentration of iodine from the local seaweed to help relieve pain.
Next, you can have another bygone experience, the uncommon sight of roofs made of thatch, dried reeds, or straw. Stop for lunch at Beach Bar on Aughris Beach to see the traditional thatched roof as well as crashing Atlantic waves.
Then drive on to Sligo Town and check in for two nights at The Glasshouse, a modern building in the center of town on the waterfront of the Garvogue River. Nearby, Shoot The Crows is a pub featuring embossed wallpaper on the ceiling and gig posters lining the walls, a lively setting for an evening of live music.
Day 5:Visiting a Farm in Sligo
Drive out to visit Atlantic Sheepdogs and be amazed by the partnership between humans and dogs working together to guide sheep. Ben Bulben, a flat topped rock formation in the Dartry Mountains, looms on the literary horizon in Yeats’ poem Under Ben Bulben. You can stop for a walk in its shadow on the Benbulben Forest Walk. Cross into County Leitrim and visit Glencar Waterfall for immersion into the world of Yeats. In his poem The Stolen Child, this waterfall evokes wild magic and wonder. Returning to Sligo, have dinner at the Harp Tavern, accompanied by live music.
Day 6:Visit the Caves of Kesh and Drumshanbo Distillery
Go to Drumshanbo Distillery in County Leitrim, where you’ll see their medieval-style copper stills in action making whisky, gin, and vodka. On the Shed Distillery Tour you can taste spirits at the bar inside a glasshouse. Or simply make use of their café that serves traditional Irish dishes such as boxty (potato pancakes) alongside standard fare.
Head back to County Mayo and check-in to Ashford Castle, which makes a striking impression when you arrive and see it against the backdrop of Lough Corrib. You’ll stay here for two nights.
Day 7:Explore Ashford Castle Estate
Take time to look around inside the castle before going to dinner in the George V dining room. Awash in silver and blue, accompanied by wood paneling, it’s a stunning setting for tasting culinary art made with Irish produce, including ingredients from the castle’s kitchen garden, and a fitting final meal before heading back to Shannon for your return flight the next day. (With U.S. preclearance at Shannon Airport, you can clear customs before landing back in the States to make your trip that much more of a delight.)