This Castle Hotel in Austria Is a Now Reimagined Luxury Retreat

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The Afar take

Just 13 miles outside of Salzburg, Lake Fuschl sparkles in shades of emerald and turquoise, fringed by forest and backed by rolling mountains. This place has bewitched generations of visitors—many of them locals who return season after season. And with Rosewood Hotels and Resorts’ renovation of the lake’s landmark hotel, opened on July 1, 2024, the castle and its surreal setting are now on the map for international visitors.

Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, known as “the Schloss,” or castle, to area residents, was built in 1461 as a hunting lodge for the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg; it became a hotel after World War II. Rosewood’s two-year overhaul has retained a timeless quality and a sense of history. Three design agencies, including Austrian-based Bauer Stahl Architecture, are behind the decor of the heritage suites and chalets. The result is an eclectic mix of contemporary glamour and historic details, exemplified by the lobby design: mounted antlers, elegant wood shelving, paintings by Old Masters, and contemporary art, including a massive portrait by German artist Georg Baselitz—an upside-down depiction of his wife. The showstopper is Schloss Bar—so beautiful that affable general manager Sascha Hemmann jokes it’s his office. Think vaulted ceilings, a 15th-century fireplace, ornamental moldings in the window alcoves, and nature-inspired wall murals by local artist Marie Hartig.

The castle played a starring role in the 1955 Sissi film trilogy, with actor Romy Schneider playing the 19th-century empress of Austria. (Today Sissi is back in vogue thanks to bestselling books, a hit 2022 movie, and the Netflix series The Empress.) The hotel pays homage to Sissi in numerous ways, from a signature suite to a turndown cookie in the shape of her pet deer.

Courtesy of Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

Who’s it for?

Culture-seeking travelers keen to explore Salzburg will appreciate the hotel’s experiences curated to open doors and offer insights. The hotel can arrange a private tour of the Festspielhaus (Great Festival House) where the famed Salzburg Festival takes place, or an exclusive peek at the Kirchtag Umbrella workshop, established in 1903 and housed in a 12th-century building. Closer to the hotel, embark on an excursion with a lake fisherman or sit down for lunch with local hikers at the nearby fishery—take a seat at an outdoor picnic table and dig into smoked fish smothered in horseradish sauce.

Adventurers can enjoy such outdoor activities as rock climbing, hiking, and Alpine winter sports. Sybarites will appreciate a treatment at the comprehensive Asaya Spa (more on that later), or a lakeside seat at the Schloss Fuschl See Club, glass of grüner veltliner wine in hand. Stretching out over the water, the deck is furnished with striped parasols, ceramic stools, and daybeds topped with colorful cushions. From here, I swam out into the water so clear I could see fish flitting beneath a brood of ducklings, just before a thunderstorm rolled across the mountains and crackled the sky.

Beyond the sublime setting, a stay here is an invitation to embrace the German concept of entschleunigen, or consciously slowing down. That’s exactly what herbalist Martina Egger helped me do on a guided walk foraging for medicinal herbs like red clover (chew it for a cell-renewing effect) and St. John’s wort (steep it in hot water to create a mood-enhancing elixir). “The sun comes in your soul and in your body,” she said of the yellow flower.

Courtesy of Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

The location

The hotel is 30 minutes by car from Salzburg Airport. Fuschl is one of the treasured lakes in the Salzkammergut region, known for its wilderness areas and the ancient salt mining that once fueled Salzburg’s wealth. Back in the day, Lake Fuschl’s entire catch furnished the tables of the Archbishops of Salzburg. Today, the idyllic lake is the site of the global headquarters of Red Bull.

A walking path rings the lake—you can break up the 2.5-hour hike with rest stops at the fishery, slivers of beach, and meadows filled with mooing cows, or explore the area from the water. Rosewood Schloss Fuschl offers kayaks, paddleboards, and a piloted 10-person boat for breakfast or sunset cruises.

The rooms

The 98 guest rooms, with their hardwood floors, large picture windows, and marble bathrooms, are spread across 13 categories in a U-shaped building. Choose a “lake view” room, as opposed to “lakeside,” for panoramas—a sitting area in front of the French windows is well placed for taking in the scene. Take it up a notch with a balcony or terrace in the Deluxe Junior Suites. The historic tower houses eight rooms and suites, including the one-bedroom Sissi Suite (No. 607), also known as the Deluxe Heritage Suite, which features a stand-alone tub. The largest of the accommodations is the Kaiser Franz Joseph House (No. 409), which can be combined with three other rooms for a four-bedroom hideaway serviced by a private butler. There are also three stand-alone chalets next to the water’s edge, with terraces and private saunas. Because the tower is classified as a historic monument, there’s no elevator or exterior terraces in these rooms.

Courtesy of Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

I loved the nightly turndown with printed bedtime stories paired with small gifts—such as the region’s famous Mozart Kugeln (chocolate-covered marzipan confections). But the pièce de resistance in my Deluxe room was the mini bar, a back-lit armoire painted in a four seasons theme by Marie Hartig, the same artist who decorated the Schloss Bar. The goods stashed on the shelf are stories in themselves: the bottled spirits are crafted by the Farthofer Distillery with ingredients sourced from within seven miles of the hotel.

The food and drink

Don’t eat breakfast in your room. Instead, head to the Seeterrasse for the lively morning vibe and lake views. Order poached eggs with cured Lake Fuschl salmon trout and watch the mist rise over the lake like the steam from your espresso. Later in the day, this restaurant morphs into a delightful dinner destination serving dishes from the Alps to the sea, such as wiener schnitzel and seared Croatian Ikejime seabass.

For a more dressed-up experience, Schloss Restaurant is a gourmet celebration of local products. Chef Julian Schwamberger, born and raised in the region, has cooked in fine restaurants around the world, such as Dubai’s Burj Al Arab. His twofold mission is to source ingredients from nearby producers, and—with unexpected flavor combinations—exalt a regional cuisine known as rustic farmer’s food. There’s caviar from Salzburg, so-called mountain prawns (shrimp sustainably farm-raised in Alpine water), and black pudding—his favorite product to use. The Salzburger Nockerl dessert, an enormous meringue soufflé shaped like the three iconic Salzburg mountains, should be mandatory for every guest (it’s that good).

Courtesy of Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

With the Vinothek and Terrace, Rosewood Schloss Fuschl appeals to a more casual local crowd with a laid-back menu and a wine list highlighting Austrian wines. (The hotel lacked this approachability in its previous incarnation.) Fresh from a hike, you can tuck into charcuterie plates and venison-cheese Krainer sausage, a local specialty, served by wait staff wearing custom lederhosen and dirndls.

Staff and service

A 300-person staff outfitted in bespoke uniforms runs the resort—I loved the jackets and green ties worn by the guest experience team—and the warmth is genuine. I had to check out at an ungodly hour for a flight, and the front desk attendant was cheery well before sunrise. I asked her about caffeinating during the night shift—not at all, she laughed, pointing out the forecast for a beautiful day. She’d go for an invigorating afternoon swim before her next shift.

Head concierge Norbert Strambach, who’s worked at the hotel for 18 years, is a wealth of information about the region. Recognized as a clef d’or concierge, he oversees a five-person team, some of whom are licensed as hiking guides. For Strambach, his job is as much about sharing stories is it is about listening to them.

Accessibility

Most of the hotel grounds have paved paths; there’s also a dedicated wheelchair-accessible guest room with a large shower. Note that because the tower is a classified historic monument, its eight rooms and suites do not have elevator access.

Courtesy of Rosewood Schloss Fuschl

Spa and swim

In addition to the dreamy experience of swimming in Lake Fuschl, the hotel has two pools in the spa area. A sliding glass wall allows you to swim to the outdoor heated pool, its infinity edge spilling toward the lake below. Equipped with eight treatment rooms, three saunas, and a steam bath, the 16,000-square-foot Asaya Spa aims to be more than a spoiling sanctuary. A partnership with Salzburg brand Biogena, known for its health supplements, elevates the spa experience with a focus on wellness and biohacking. Results-oriented facials incorporate products by French Japanese cosmetics brand Evidens de Beauté. A special shout out to therapist Joe for the superb hot-stone massage with CBD oil. From $650