What It’s Like to Spend the Night Amid Europe’s Tallest Sand Dunes

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The Afar take

Sardinians call the area surrounding Le Dune Piscinas the “Little Sahara of Italy,” and it’s easy to see why: the resort, set along an 11-mile stretch of deserted beach on Sardinia’s rugged Costa Verde, is framed by Europe’s tallest sand dunes, part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. The 1.5-hour drive from Cagliari Airport to Le Dune Piscinas is an experience unto itself: navigating dusty, winding roads lined with mining ruins, I passed the 19th-century ghost village of Ingurtosu, a reminder of Sardinia’s industrial past, complete with crumbling structures and the imposing Palazzo della Direzione.

Courtesy of Le Dune Piscinas

Le Dune Piscinas marries its rich mining history with modern luxury. Before becoming a hotel in April 2024, the property was the private villa of Colonel Caroli, an army colonel who inherited the old mining warehouse from his father, the last director of the Ingurtosu mines. Together with his partner, Caroli transformed it into a private residence and eventually into the present-day hotel, whose entrance is the original tunnel dug out at the start of the 1800s.

Who’s it for?

This is the kind of place where quiet reigns supreme. It’s ideal for a solo escape or for anyone celebrating love. Note that while Le Dune Piscinas allows children, it doesn’t specifically cater to families, so there are limited services for younger guests.

The location

Situated on Sardinia’s wild Costa Verde, Le Dune Piscinas feels a world away from typical tourist hot spots. The hotel is a scenic 1.5-hour drive from Cagliari Airport (but if you drive like me, expect closer to two). The hotel is flanked by miles of wilderness, with the Mediterranean Sea on one side and sand dunes on the other. “What do people do when they check in here?” I asked Luca Borgognoni, the rooms division manager, as I sipped on a glass of franciacorta. His response was simple but telling: “Tune out.” And that’s exactly what I did. Guests typically spend their time enjoying the natural surroundings, hiking the dunes, sunbathing on the deserted beach. The nearby mining ruins add a layer of intrigue to the landscape.

The hotel closes between November and February for the off-season, so plan accordingly. While any time is good for visiting Sardinia, I suggest going in September or October when the prices drop, the sea is still warm, and the beaches remain uncrowded.

The rooms

The hotel, renovated by architect Enrico Favero of FVR Engineering in Padova, skillfully blends elements of its mining past with modern luxury. The interior design, crafted by Antonio Gardoni and Luca Platto of Brescia’s PL-AG Studio, enhances the original warehouse structure with natural materials and local craftsmanship.

With only 28 rooms spread across several buildings (once used as warehouses for the local mine), the design is a blend of rustic and modern. Room categories, with their sandblasted Orosei marble, exposed stone walls, and custom Sardinian fabrics, range from classic and superior to prestige and deluxe; there are also nine suites. Each room comes with a dedicated parasol and sun loungers on the hotel’s private beach.

Courtesy of Le Dune Piscinas

One standout is the Lady Idina Master Suite, a 968-square-foot seafront sanctuary with a private spa and a large teak terrace with a pool facing the sand dunes. The Junior Suite with Pool has a private fenced garden with a pool, sun loungers, and panoramic views of the dunes and sea. It’s also an ideal spot to catch a glimpse of Sardinian deer at sunset. I cozied up in a deluxe room with a balcony. Every evening, I’d sit outside gazing at inky, star-filled skies, and every morning, I enjoyed a doppio espresso at sunrise in my robe and slippers.

The food and drink

Executive chef Angelo Biscotti focuses on Mediterranean cuisine using Sardinian ingredients. Red-walled Rosso Tramonto, open for dinner only, is covered in murals by Sardinian artist Federico Carta (aka Crisa).

Il Ginepro, the more casual option, serves fresh seafood and Sardinian classics like malloreddus (Sardinian gnocchi) and culurgiones (ravioli-like pasta dumplings). For something lighter, the Gechi American Bar offers predinner cocktails and snacks. Bartender Stefano Musselli’s Palomino—a blend of blanco tequila, pink grapefruit liqueur, and Sardinian strawberry tree honey—became my aperitivo of choice. The bar also has an impressive selection of local Sardinian wines.

Staff and service

Service is attentive, thoughtful, and highly personalized. One morning, I was at the breakfast display raving about a nut bread I’d had the previous day but couldn’t find. Moments later, a server appeared with a slice straight from the kitchen.

Courtesy of Le Dune Piscinas

The knowledgeable staff can also arrange anything from horseback rides across the dunes to diving excursions to explore a 17th-century English shipwreck—and even day trips via boat to discover hidden coves and isolated beaches that are inaccessible by land. You can visit local Sardinian vineyards or hike the nearby mining ruins.

Accessibility

The hotel offers a few accessibility features: Some ground-floor rooms offer walk-in showers and lowered sinks, and there is an accessible entrance and parking. But the terrain on the property is mostly sandy and can be challenging to navigate for those with limited mobility.

Sustainability

The hotel has adopted modern sustainable practices like minimizing water usage and sourcing local ingredients. Single-use plastics have been eliminated, and energy-efficient LED lighting is used throughout the property.

Getting there (without getting lost)

The hotel offers transportation for an additional fee (rates vary depending on season and which part of the island you’re coming from). I recommend renting a car at Cagliari Airport and taking in the wild beauty of Sardinia on the drive; the final stretch is a dirt road but easily drivable.