The French Riviera needs no introduction. This alluring stretch of coastline— known as the Côte d’Azur since poet Stéphen Liégeard coined the phrase in 1887—is bathed by the Mediterranean and blessed with sunshine. It’s a place to see and be seen: a longtime playground for movie stars and creatives (Brigitte Bardot and F. Scott Fitzgerald among them) and a catwalk for the fashion set. Bien sûr, there’s unabashed luxury (cue the super yachts cruising offshore) and next-level hedonism (picture bronzed revelers on Saint-Tropez’s Plage de Pampelonne). But there’s also plenty of laid-back hospitality and idyllic nature for outdoor adventures.
Over nearly 20 years of living in France, I’ve escaped to this region many times to soak up the sun, sea, and Mediterranean good life. For the latest installment of Afar’s Hotels We Love series, I’ve chosen the places I adore most—all of which reflect the beauty and spirit of this legendary place. Keep in mind the Riviera’s seasonality; some hotels close in the winter.
Airelles Château de la Messardière
- Location: Saint-Tropez
- Why we love it: A singular setting and top-notch kids club
- From: $1,365
- Book now
The wow factor kicks in immediately upon arrival at Airelles Château de la Messardière, which commands a hilltop above Saint-Tropez. The arbor at the entrance is festooned with green plants that complement the surrounding forest of parasol pines. From this setting, you can take in 360-degree views of the Med—from the Bay of Saint-Tropez to the Plage de Pampelonne. The château dates from the 19th century when a cognac merchant built it as a wedding gift for his daughter and her cavalry officer husband. Later it became a hotel that’s been part of France’s ultra-luxe, nine-property Airelles hotel collection since 2021. (The original Airelles Hotel helped establish Courchevel as a luxury ski destination par excellence.)
Steeped in high-octane glamour, the 99-room Château de la Messardière encompasses 32 acres studded with shimmering pools, tennis courts, a marble-clad Valmont spa, and jasmine-scented gardens. There’s a staggering lunch buffet at La Table—with pastries by star pâtissier Cédric Grolet—plus Japanese and Latin American delights from chef Nobu Matsuhisa at his eponymous Matsuhisa restaurant. Or opt for Mediterranean fare by another top chef, Jean-François Piège, at the Jardin Tropezina beach club (transfers are by Rolls-Royce).
Families should take note of the kids club, Airelles Summer Camp, one of the Riviera’s best. Young travelers are picked up in the morning by a petite train that transports them to the extensive facilities, including a LEGO room, art studio, petting zoo, sprawling tree house, and an arcade for teens. Demand is so high for Airelles Summer Camp, there’s often a waiting list for visitors who aren’t hotel guests (though hotel guests are guaranteed a spot).
Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel
- Location: Nice
- Why we love it: Unique guest experiences and a city-center location
- From $384
- Book now
Debuted in January 2023, the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel was the first in a wave of new hotels in a city that was previously lacking in luxury hotels. Dating to 1848, this golden-hued edifice near the Place Masséna was sloughed and buffed for two years. The first French property for the Bangkok-based hotel group is all about cultural immersion, and to that aim, the 151-room hotel devises Riviera guest experiences that reveal the destination. You can do a half-day free-diving lesson with world champion Arthur Guérin-Boëri off the coast of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, partake in a chef-led market tour and cooking class, or take a trip to the wine-producing château that inspired Coco Chanel’s monogram.
After a day of exploration, return for a massage in the Anantara Spa, which uses essential oils crafted by a local perfumery, then head to the rooftop restaurant, Seen by Oliver, for eat-your-heart-out views of the Albert 1er gardens and the Med. Be sure to try the Bellet wine vintage created by the Château de Cremat winery exclusively for the hotel.
Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel
- Location: Cap d’Antibes, between Antibes and Juan-les-Pins
- Why we love it: A Relais & Châteaux property on the sand
- From $500
- Book now
While the Riviera coast between Nice and Cannes can feel urban and developed, the Cap d’Antibes peninsula is a haven of greenery. (The Jardin Thuret, which Georges Sand called “the loveliest garden I have ever seen,” was where a 19th-century French botanist experimented with exotic plants; many of them now define the Cote d’Azur landscape.) The Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel sits right on the sand, the low-slung buildings channeling the midcentury-modern architectural vibe of Palm Springs. For a redesign unveiled in 2023, Belgian architect Bernard Dubois played up the modernist leitmotif with white stucco walls, geometric patterns, and bespoke mahogany tables in the lobby. All the furniture was custom designed in the 35 rooms—from the mahogany closets to the mirror-lined bars. The pink marble bathrooms contrast with gray granite floors. The best room in the house is Le Cap Suite, with a sea-facing terrace and a Jacuzzi in the bathroom. (Deluxe and privilege rooms overlook private gardens or terraces.)
Direct access to a beach is rare here—a busy roadway separates hotels from the water in Nice and Cannes—but you can tumble from your room to a pink-cushioned lounger where an attendant sets you up with a towel, parasol, and glass of rosé. (Beach loungers, which cost a premium on the Cote d’Azur, are included in your room rate.) Cool off in the Med or in the small swimming pool, or join a yoga session in one of the garden pavilions (there’s also a pavilion for spa treatments).
At sunset, the Baba Bar offers cocktails as electric as the soundtrack. The adjacent Baba Restaurant from Israeli chef Assaf Granit, known for his spirited Paris restaurants, features such tasty items as warm kubaneh bread, fish and seafood shawarma with caramelized onions, and chicken mesachen atop confit vegetables on an amba crepe. Even before the hotel existed, this spot was famed for Les Pêcheurs restaurant, now a Michelin-starred Riviera institution. To put together his menu, chef Nicolas Rondelli fields calls from a local fisherman, who reveals his daily catch.
Carlton Cannes, a Regent Hotel
- Location: Cannes
- Why we love it: A Belle Époque icon
- Loyalty program: IHG One Rewards
- From $380
- Book now
The Carlton Cannes, a Regent Hotel, is part of the history of Cannes. The cream-colored confection—its twin domes said to be inspired by a famous courtesan’s breasts—was the first luxury hotel to open in 1913, effectively making Cannes a summer beach destination. Over the years, the star-studded guest list has included Hollywood’s crème de la crème, starting with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant when Alfred Hitchcock filmed To Catch a Thief, and to this day, it hosts the jury of the prestigious Cannes Film Festival.
Reopened in 2023 after a five-year restoration project, the 332-room hotel is making waves anew on La Croisette. There are two new wings, a Mediterranean garden, an infinity pool, and the C Club Fitness and Spa, which features the city’s first boxing ring. Designer Tristan Auer recruited the finest French craftspeople to restore the gold leaf, chandeliers, and acres of marble. When you need to recharge, there’s no better vantage point to admire the Big Blue than the love seats in front of the French windows (72 rooms have sea views).
Château de Théoule
- Location: Théoule-sur-Mer
- Why we love it: A fantastical castle overlooking the Bay of Cannes
- From $393
- Book now
Just eight miles from Cannes, the seaside village of Théoule-sur-Mer feels like a secret. Set beneath the red-rock mountains of the Massif de l’Estérel, it’s surrounded by protected natural areas threaded with hiking trails. Next to the picturesque port, the French Millésime Collection debuted its highly anticipated Château de Théoule in March 2024. The retreat was constructed as a soap factory in the 17th century—subterranean vaulted vestiges remain—and converted into a castle by a Scottish lord in the 19th century. The château’s nearly two-year transformation resulted in 34 rooms and 10 suites spread among three buildings: the château, adjacent villa, and Maison des Pêcheurs, which houses three suites. For the color palette in the sea-facing rooms, the group’s designer Marie-Christine Mecoen drew inspiration from aquatic life. Eclectic touches include seashells fashioned as art and palm tree light fixtures.
There’s a pool, spa offering treatments by Kos Paris and MyBlend by Clarins, plus the beach club dotted with white parasols. But whatever you choose to do, don’t miss a meal at Mareluna restaurant. Chef Francesco Fezza—who’s worked with the Alain Ducasse Group in Paris and Japan—doesn’t hide his Michelin ambitions in a destination known for superlative dining. Dishes like the tagliatelle made from cuttlefish, and the Brittany crab—decorated with Oscietra caviar and a crab-shaped chip—show off both his culinary prowess and playfulness. As you dine, admire the lights of Cannes glittering across the water.
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc
- Location: Cap d’Antibes
- Why we love it: A French Riviera legend with a sense of history
- From $1,854
- Book now
At this 150-year-old grande dame, old-school glamour mingles with Riviera hedonism on its manicured, pine tree–studded grounds. Well-heeled regulars, returning season after season to Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, appreciate the loyalty of long-term staff. During the Cannes Film Festival, tycoons and oligarchs feature on the guest list, rubbing shoulders with high-profile celebrities who relax with croquet games between press junkets. Part of the Oetker Collection, the hotel made an appearance in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night; Picasso once designed the menus; in 2011, Chanel presented its annual travel-inspired Cruise collection in the Grande Allée.
It’s that sense of history, coupled with wonderful service, that distinguishes the Hotel du Cap. In 2024, an additional 34 (of 111) rooms were touched up with original artwork and new fabrics by Pierre Frey fabrics to complement original details such as chandeliers and Louis XV furniture. The 31 seaside cabanas also got a glow-up. There are new enticements, too: a Tequilaria Bar overlooking the Med and exclusive treatments from Dior at the spa.
Hôtel du Couvent, a Luxury Collection Hotel
- Location: Nice
- Why we love it: A historic convent, restored to perfection, overlooking Old Nice
- Loyalty program: Marriott Bonvoy
- From $420
- Book now
A decade in the making, a centuries-old convent—abandoned for years—has been given a new lease on life as a hotel in the heights of Old Nice. Even many Niçois were not aware of the enormous garden that abuts the hilltop citadel. Summit the Old Town’s cobbled staircases (or ask the hotel to pick you up in a golf cart) and you’ll arrive at a discreet entrance that gives way to a courtyard planted with orange trees and terraced gardens. In many ways, the Hôtel du Couvent—the result of a 93-million-euro investment—is a symbol of Nice’s renaissance as a tourist destination. The city under Mayor Christian Estrosi has sought to invest in the hospitality sector, bringing vitality to the city that’s considered the gateway to the Riviera.
The project is from French hotelier Valéry Grégo. A team of architects and designers plunged into the historical archives, and visited other monasteries, to create an aesthetic that’s respectful of the site’s heritage. The feel is minimalist to echo the place’s monastic origins. Every piece of furniture was chosen with care, such as the desks custom-made from old timber ship masts, and the antiques sourced from across Europe. The 88 guest rooms, spread across four buildings, are styled in earth tones. Standouts include the two-bedroom Marguerite Suite—its garden even comes with a barbecue grill—and room P25 (in the Pertus building) with a balcony overlooking the garden. Note: Rooms don’t have TVs.
From garden lunches at La Guingette to the spa inspired by ancient Roman baths, the hotel facilities also draw locals. Churning out croissants and focaccia, the bakery was built around the convent’s original oven. The apothecary-style L’Herboristerie—its wood-paneled walls stocked with jars of herbs—is a collaboration with a local herbalist who’s been foraging in the nearby mountains for decades. Soon, the cloister will host a weekly farmer’s market.
Hôtel Les Roches Rouges
- Location: Saint-Raphaël
- Why we love it: A modernist ode to the Mediterranean
- From $317
- Book now
You can’t get any closer to the sea than this photogenic property built at the water’s edge in the 1950s. Transformed into a hotel in 2017, Les Roches Rouges is named for the red rocks in the surrounding Massif de l’Estérel. The original modernist building—reminiscent of a California motel—houses 44 balconied rooms that exude retro style: mini polaroids of vintage beach scenes are pinned to the whitewashed walls, 1950s pieces sit on the concrete floors, and there’s a pair of canvas chairs on the balcony, where views are a continuation of your room’s azure, ochre, and white color palette. Down below, a lap pool sparkles next to the natural seawater infinity pool carved from the rocks.
The setting alone is enough to book a stay, but Les Roches Rouges also offers plenty to do onsite: games of Pétanque in the garden are followed by paddle boarding, vitality massages at the tranquil spa, and Levant Bleu cocktails at La Plage. The Michelin-starred Récif restaurant shows off the bounty of the Provençal larder with ingredients supplied by local farms and raphaëlois fisherman Olivier Bardoux.
Part of Beaumier Hotels, a 10-property group named for a 19th-century French explorer, Les Roches Rouges will soon unveil an expansion in a neighboring building with an additional 25 rooms, gym, and rooftop.
La Réserve Ramatuelle
- Location: Saint-Tropez
- Why we love it: Infinite blue waters, tranquil elegance, and healthy Mediterranean living
- Loyalty program: Leaders Club (Leading Hotels of the World)
- From $1,058
- Book now
Just a 15-minute drive from the glamour of Saint-Tropez, the “palace”-classified La Réserve Ramatuelle channels Riviera elegance without ostentation, drawing devotees season after season. (The late Karl Lagerfeld used to rent a private villa every year.) Ramatuelle is a protected natural area, and the resort’s architectural design by Jean-Michel Wilmotte—set within the pine-clad hills—blends harmoniously with the environment. Spread across three terraced levels, the 19 rooms and eight suites maximize the Mediterranean light with floor-to-ceiling windows framing sea views; the living space extends outdoors with furnished terraces. For a refresh in 2024, designer Jacques Garcia enhanced the effect of the Provencal light with mirrors and neutral tones, while decorative painter Delphine Nény created wall frescoes echoing Jean Cocteau’s folkloric style. The lobby is especially striking as the sunlight pours in through walls of glass and reflects on the gleaming white curtains, armchairs, and sculptures.
La Réserve Ramatuelle is a reflection of entrepreneur Michel Reybier’s discreet style of hospitality: guests feel at home in rooms kitted out with every comfort (Duravit heated toilets, yoga mats, well-stocked fridges, curated libraries), and the staff (400 in high season) engage with guests in a friendly, down-to-earth way. Wellness is another cornerstone; La Réserve Ramatuelle is the birthplace of the longevity-focused Nescens brand with the “better aging” motto, and frequently hosts boot camps and yoga retreats. Built into the rocks, the serene spa has sea-facing treatment rooms, a gym, a steam room, and a sun-dappled indoor pool.
It’s easy enough to hit up Saint-Tropez’s sultry scene via the courtesy shuttle, or pop down to La Réserve à la Plage on the world-famous Pampelonne beach. But it’s equally as tempting to stay ensconced at La Réserve, lounging by the outdoor pool, sipping wine on your terrace, or dining at La Voile restaurant. (Chef Eric Canino’s chicken and lobster dish is so popular, it hasn’t come off the menu in 13 years.)
Maybourne Riviera
- Location: Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
- Why we love it: Sky-high views of the Med and Monaco
- From $709
- Book now
The Maybourne Hotel Group made a splash in 2021 when it unveiled its first French hotel, the Maybourne Riviera. The cliff-side location close to 1,000 feet above Roquebrune-Cap-Martin offers panoramic views of Monte Carlo, the Mediterranean, and the coastline curving into Italy. From every vantage point—the glass-enclosed restaurants, the infinity pool loungers, suite terraces—the visual montage is on full display.
Maybourne tapped French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte to transform a vacant property into a modernist hangout filled with head-turning artwork—including the lobby’s gleaming sculpture of two intertwined people by Louise Bourgeois suspended from the ceiling. The 69 guest rooms and suites are done up in a contemporary style—the suites feature furnished terraces that seem to float between the sea and sky. The pièce de résistance is the Michelin-starred Ceto restaurant, overseen by chef Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur fame. An ode to the sea in its decor and cuisine, Ceto champions sustainable fishing. The marine theme continues in the summer Ceto bar, where cocktails like the Circe (made with mezcal, fig leaf, Campari, and jalapeño) take their names from Greek mythology. There’s also a spa, daily fitness classes, and a seasonal beach club called Maybourne La Plage in Cap Martin.